


v - 









4? ■< 5\ 
























°- 
























. 





















^ 









. 



























o 
























^ 





















°o 






~, ' 



^ 















o 






.0 






*— . I 




















































*— ' * • • 



























4- 


















C" <i- 









.0 v 












* .' 






•p. 









^ 







































• > • 


















5* A 






<*° -; 









°* 



cv 



<*-. 



v 1 . 



! 



4* 

O > 
























^5 V 

V* 



* -«- v 















.v«* 






V 

-£ 






b. 






o .0 > V 















^ 






j> ^ o* "*b 



\>^ 



V 

^ 



a/ 
°* f° *> \* 



,v v 












,0 o 






*> 









<V ■ 



























THow to flfcake Battenberg 
ano point Xace 



BY 



NELLIE CLARK BROWN 




Published by 

THE PRISCILLA PUBLISHING COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 



MRS 6 1l 



5G910 8tCUNU«-OHV. 






Copyright, iqoo 

By The Priscilla Publishing Company 

Boston, Mass. 



How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace* 



$ 



Selection of Materials. 




jHE same rules and instruction apply- 
to Battenberg and modern point lace. 
The latter, being much the finer and 
more delicate, requires more time and 
patience. Both deserve equal care. 

Braid and Thread. 

The pattern being chosen, select a smooth linen 
braid. Great care should be taken to avoid getting 
a cotton braid. The beauty and value of many a 
piece of Battenberg lace has been lessened because 
it was made with a cotton braid. 

The working thread, as well as all other parts 
of the wtrk, should always be linen. There are 
various lace threads that are jjood, and each has 
its friends. Some of the threads that are so 
slightly twisted as to resemble floss are good for 
the filling of rings, and, when a soft, indefinite 
effect is desired, is the right thing for their cover- 
ing of buttonhole stitch or crochet. When it is 
desired to have each thread in the covering of the 
ring stand out distinctly, thread more tightly 
twisted should be used. For overcasting the braid, 
Nos. 70 or 80 may be used, while for the filling-in 
stitches, Nos. 40 to 60 should be selected, according 
to the degree of fineness desired in the work. The 
-narrow braid calls for a finer thread than the 
wider braid requires. None of the cotton threads 
should be used for any part of the permanent 
work. To avoid knots and tangles in the working- 
thread, the needle should always be threaded from 
the right end of the thread, and before working 
the thread should be drawn through the thumb 
and finger of the left hand to lessen its liability to 
twist and tangle. 

For needle point lace the best thread is the 
"Petit Moulin" linen lace thread, manufactured 
for the purpose in France. This thread may be 
had in numbers from 30 to 1500. For the very 
finest lace, Nos. 1000 to 1500 should be used, 
while for doilies and handkerchiefs it is advisable 
to use a slightly heavier thread. Nos. 600 to 1000 
are good. In making Honiton and princess lace, 
Nos. 400 to 600 are most effective. The coarser 
threads are excellent for Battenberg lace. 

1 



This thread comes in balls, varying in size from 
the tiny ball of No. 1500 to the large ball of No. 
30. Arouud the outside is pasted a ring of stiff 
paper, which serves as a protector for the thread, 
and keeps it free from soil. This paper should 
not be removed, but the thread should be used 
from the centre of the ball. On one side of the 
ball is a thread passing across from the centre to 
the circumference. By pulling this thread an end 
is discovered, and the ball unwinds from the in- 
side in the fashion of most balls of thread and 
twine. It is advisable to put the ball into a little 
box, through a puncture in the lid of which the 
thread may be drawn without risk of soil or injury. 
Thread bags of various kinds may be used instead 
of the box. 

Rings. 

Very excellent rings may be bought read)- for 
use, but many ladies prefer to make them. For 
their use a very handy little ring gauge has been 
invented, and is shown in miniature in Fig. 1. 
This provides for the making of rings 
in six different sizes, and permits of 
their being made of any thickness de- 
sired. The thread or floss is wound 
around the chosen section of the ring 
gauge a sufficient number of times, 
perhaps twenty, to make the ring of 
the necessary thick- 
ness. The thread or 
floss should be loose 
enough to allow of its 
being overcast. To do 
this, thread a needle 
and pass it repeatedly 
around the roll of 
threads by pushing 
the needle between the threads and the ring gauge. 
When it is closely overcast, push the thread ring 
carefully off the ring gauge without marring its 
circular shape. To do this successfully, give it a 
series of little pushes with the thumb around and 
around its circumference until it slips off. It is 
now a ring of threads held in place by the over- 
casting thread which is coiled around it. It may 





Fro. l. Ring Gauge and Button- 
holed Ring fob Battenbekg 
and Point Lace. 



now be finished in either one or two ways. It 
may be covered with a close row of buttonhole 
stitches, and so resemble the ready-made ring, or 
it may be covered with a close row of single 
crochet. The end may be fastened by passing it 
through the threads of the ring. If the needle is 
thrust through the body of the ring, and carries 
the thread a short distance from the finishing 
place, and then with another stitch returns to its 
starting-point, the end will be safely secured. To 



make the rings exactly alike, care should be taken 
to have the thread circle the ring gauge exactly 
the same number of times in each. ring. 

Rings for the needle point lace should be very 
slender and delicate. The thread should be wound 
around the gauge from four to eight or ten times, 
then overcast and buttonholed. Crochet is not 
practical for these dainty rings. When a substi- 
tute for the ring gauge is desired, bone knitting- 
needles, pencils, or tiny glass bottles may be used. 



Basting and Overcasting. 




aHE first work is basting the braid to the 
pattern. In most patterns the braid is 
represented by a double line. In bast- 
ing, one edge of the braid should follow 
the outer line of the pattern, and the basting 
threads should be placed through the open edge of 
the braid and upon the outer line of the pattern 
designating the braid. When the progress of the 
pattern changes the outer line or curve, to which 
you have been basting, to the inner curve, the 
basting thread should be carried across the braid 
as is shown in the illustration (Fig. 2), and the 
basting continued along what is now the outer 
curve. 




FIG. 2. METHOD OF BASTING BRAID IN BATTENBERG AND 

Point Lace. 

The basting stitches should be rather close and 
short, and should be drawn tightly so as to hold 
the braid firmly to its place. Should the basting 
stitches be loose, the putting in of the lace stitches 
will inevitably draw the braid from its place on 
the pattern and spoil the perfection of the lines 
and curves of the design. 

Back stitching is neither necessary nor advis- 
able. The forward stitches taken closely and 
firmly will hold the braid securely, and are easy 



to remove. Braid that is back stitched to the pat- 
tern makes an unnecessarily tedious task of the 
separating of the work from the pattern just at 
the time when the completion of the stitches makes 
the worker unusually eager to see the work com- 
pleted. 

Never under any circumstances should any but 
a straight length of braid be basted through the 
middle. Should the braid be basted through the 
middle when following a curve, it is almost im- 
possible not to draw it too tight, and as a result 
the outer edge will curl up and utterly spoil the 
work, as no amount of care in placing the stitches 
can make right a piece of work where the outer 
edge of the braid around a curve rises in its might, 
and reaches longingly towards its opposite and 
inner edge. 

Turning Corners. 

Great care should be observed in turning corners, 
and various methods are employed for corners of 
different angles. In an obtuse corner (Fig. 3, a), 
or one so broad and shallow as to be almost a curve, 
it is only necessary to follow the outer curve of the 
pattern of the braid, and allow the resulting fulness 
to remain loose until the overcasting stitches draw 
it down into shape. 

In sharp or acute angles (Fig. 3, b) the braid may 
be basted to the extreme point of the angle, and 
the fulness folded over, so the fold will lie along 
the edge of the braid, as the basting is continued 
along the second side of the point. 

In a sharp angle the fold of the braid may also 
be turned under (Fig. 3, c), the fold being so regu- 
lated that its ends reach from the exact point of 
the outer edge of the braid or pattern to the exact 



point of the inner edge. This forms a niitered 
corner and divides the point exactly in halves. 

Still another way (Fig. 3, d) is applicable to an 
angle of any degree, but it cuts off the end of the 
point. In this method, when the point is ap- 
proached, the braid is simply turned over upon 
itself at the angle necessary to allow the braid 
upon either side of the fold to follow the line of 
the design. 




Fig. 3. Method of Basting Battenberg and Point Lace 
Braid on Corners and Cubves. 

In all cases the point of the braid should be 
securely fastened to the pattern in such a way 
that its end will not stand out from the pattern 
and form a hook or projection, around which the 
working thread will be prone to catch at the risk 
of pricked fingers, tangled thread, and stitches 
dragged out of shape. A stitch or two carried 
from the point of the braid to the pattern beyond 
will hold all points securely and will repay the 
care expended many times. Hurried basting, with 
loose points and corners, often results in great loss 
of time and perfection of work. 

Scallops and Loops. 

Where the pattern contains a series of overlap- 
ping scallops or loops, with one width of braid 
between them (Fig. 3, e), the braid should not be 
3ut but doubled back upon itself. Baste the 
braid upon the outer edge of the design until it 
reaches the braid that checks its course. Turn it 
back upon itself so that the fold just touches the 
other braid and may be overcast to it. Let the 
edge of the returning braid follow the outer line 
of the pattern of the next scallop or loop. 

Where the design of the pattern contains a series 
}f scallops or loops on either side of a central fig- 
are (Fig. 3, e) the braid may be put on with the 



foldings in the order in which they come, but this 
destroys the similarity of the two sides. A better 
appearance is obtained by having the two siiles 
similar. In tinning the braid back upon itself 
at the end or top of the loop, it is brought »<•<•/• 
the already basted braid of the preceding loop. 
On the opposite side it is best to turn the braid 
under the side of the preceding loop. This must 
be done before the basting of the preceding loop is 
completed. 

Upon reaching the point where the two braids 
diverge, the end of the braid nearest the bastings 
is taken in the fingers of the left hand, and with 
the fingers of the right hand is doubled back or 
under that held in the left hand. Lay the doubled 
braid down upon the pattern, being sure that it is 
just sufficiently long to reach the end of the loop 
or scallop. One row of basting fastens the two 
layers of braid into place. It is best to cut the 
braid as seldom as possible, and this method of 
turning back the braid saves many cuttings, ami 
presents a much neater appearance than when it 
is cut at every opportunity. 

Overcasting'. 

After the braid has all been carefully basted 
into place, the full inner edges of the curves must 
also be brought into place. To do this they must- 
be overcast with a very fine linen thread. This 
overcasting thread should pass over and over the 
edge of the braid and into each of its marginal 
loops. Only occasionally, on very large, slightly 
curved lines, may a loop be here and there omitted. 

On the edges of spaces to be filled with twisted 
bars, spiders, wheels, and other similar stitches 
where the working thread must pass from point 
to point along the edge of the braid, the overcast- 
ing may be omitted, and the passage of the working 
thread utilized to draw the braid into place as it 
proceeds in its course of completing the stitch. 
Familiarity with the work will show when the 
work of overcasting may in this way be lessened. 
The overcasting thread should not be drawn tight 
enough to draw the braid from its place on the 
pattern, but it should be tight enough to hold 
the inner gathered edge smoothly down to the 
pattern, where it must fit as flatly as its opposite 
outer edge. 

Whenever the overcasting thread reaches a place 
where two edges of the braid meet or cross, the 
needle should be passed through both braids, either 



ill a simple overcasting stitch or with a single 
buttonhole knot. When the thread passes from 
one side to the other of two braid edges the thread 
should connect them at both sides. 

When in the course of the overcasting the curve 
of the braid changes, and the inner curve becomes 
the outer one, a buttonhole stitch should be taken 
in the edge of the braid at the point where the 
curve changes and the thread carefully woven 
through the braid to its opposite side, where 
another buttonhole stitch should be taken and the 
overcasting continued. 

Cutting the Braid. 

Where, the ends of a braid meet at a corner, or 
other place having no other braid to hide the junc- 
ture, fold the end of the under braid up and the 
end of the upper braid down, and lay the one upon 
the other. Overcast them together at the end of 
both braids. The beginning of the basting of the 
braid to the design, as well as the joining of two 
ends, should occur at the crossing of two braids. 
Pass the second braid over the end of the first, and 
when you again reach that point in the design put 
tin- second end under the overlying braid with the 
first. This makes the upper side the right side. 

If it is desired to have the under side of the 
work, or the side next the pattern, the right side, 
the manner of procedure should be reversed, and 
the two ends placed over the other braid. These 
ends should be either turned over and hemmed 
down neatly, or very carefully overcast to the other 
braid, that no ragged edges may be seen on either 
side. The folding over of the ends makes the 
work a. little thicker just at that point, and is 
more easily noticed than the other finish, which, if 
carefully done, is hardly visible, and is especially 
fitted for the finer laces. 

Basting the Rings to the Pattern. 

When basting on the rings it is well to remem- 
ber that the basting threads have to lie removed 
later. Only enough are needed to hold the ring 
in place If the needle is thrust through the 
ring four times, twice downwards and twice up- 
wards, it is sufficient. As the rings are not exactly 
alike on both sides, it is necessary, when placing 
them, to be very careful to see that the same side 
is always uppermost. Very pretty effects are 
obtained by graduating the size of the rings in a 



row or series. The centre ring may be the largest* 
and those on either side may decrease in size as 
they approach the end or point of the space allotted 
to them, or a large ring may lead a row of others 
of decreasing size. 

When the pattern requires the rings to be placed 
so close together that they touch, they should be 
united by threads entering each ring at one point 
only, and these uniting threads should not be 
drawn tight enough to bring the rings firmly 
together, but should serve as a hinge, which, while 
it keeps the rings together, allows them to move 
freely. Rings should, under no circumstances, be 
sewed together along their circumferences, as the 
effect is stiff and clumsy, and not at all dainty 
and lace-like. 

It is best to baste the rings to the pattern only 
as the progress of the work requires. The working 
thread is very apt to catch between the basted 
rings and the pattern, and so delay the work. 
After the work of attaching the rings to the braid 
with the lace stitches has been completed, it is 
impossible for the thread to catch in this manner. 

Fastening the Thread. 

Knots should never appear in any lace, and the 
worker should aim to have both sides of the work 
appear equally neat and perfect. When the com- 
pletion of a stitch or the limit of a thread permits 
the fastening to be made at the intersection of two 
braids, a single buttonhole knot should be made, 
and the thread passed, by means of the needle, 
back and forth two or three times between the 
braids with a tiny backstitch at each change of 
the direction of the thread. When a new thread 
is to be fastened at the intersection of two braids, 
the needle should be passed between these two 
braids with the point toward the place at which 
the thread is to be fastened. The thread should 
then be carefully drawn through until the end 
just disappears from sight between the braids. A 
buttonhole knot should then be made, and back of 
it a second one to guard its predecessor. 

When, in the course of the work, the end of a 
used thread must be fastened to a single braid, it 
may be overcast along the edge of the braid with 
an occasional buttonhole knot, or a single button- 
hole knot may tie the thread to the edge of the 
braid, and the needle may then pass in a series 
of tiny running stitches, with an occasional back- 
stitch, along the body of the braid for a short 



distance. The new thread should then be carried 
by the needle in a similar manner along the braid 
from the direction opposite that taken by the 
retiring thread. At the point where the thread is 
to be fastened, and the work continued, two button- 
hole knots are all that is necessary. 

It is often well, when filling in with stitches that 
permit, to begin the new thread on the side of the 
space opposite the ending of the former thread. 
This serves to make the place of j uncture still less 
conspicuous. 

All patterns should be able to be considered as 
composed of two parts — design and background. 
The design should be prominently brought out, 
and, to accomplish this, the network and other 
showy stitches should be used, keeping the spider- 
webs, bars, and other open stitches for the back- 
ground. It is well to put in the background. 
stitches first, as they will hold the curves of the 
braid in place, and preserve the shape of the de- 
sign until the work is finished. 



When working, either side of the lace may be 
considered the right side. Each has its advantages 
and disadvantages. The aim of the worker should 
always be to make both sides so neatly and care- 
fully that they are equally beautiful, and there is 
no wrong side. Ribbed wheels and some other 
stitches cannot so easily be worked on the wrong 
side, and some other stitches appear better on the 
side upon which they have been worked. Other 
stitches appear alike on both sides. The overcast- 
ing of two braids together, and the beginning and 
ending of each thread, often appear more plainly 
upon the upper side and mar the effect of the 
work, but with care that can be avoided. When 
the wrong side is up, care must be exercised in 
placing the rings, which must also be wrong side 
up. If there is any fear of soiling the work, it is 
always advisable to make it wrong side up. The 
under side is usually smoother, but the pressing 
of the piece when finished makes both sides equally 
smooth and handsome. 



Preparing a Sampler. 




VERY lace-maker should prepare a sam- 
pler upon which to reproduce the 
various lace stitches, which may be 
worked, cut out, and repeated until pro- 
ficiency is acquired, and this without danger of 
soiling or in any way spoiling the piece of work 
in which the stitch is to be introduced. If 
every stitch is practised in this way the worker 
will in the end, besides having become very fa- 
miliar with the various stitches, have them illus- 
trated in a compact, practical form. Only those 
workers who have prepared them for use know the 
comfort and satisfaction to be had in the posses- 
sion of a sampler. 

To prepare this sampler an oblong piece of cam- 
bric or holland is required. The size of this 
depends upon the size of the collection of stitches 
the worker hopes to obtain, and a sampler is a 
great incentive to new stitches. What the kodak 
book and the stamp album are to their devotees, 
so is the sampler to the lace-worker. A new stitch 
becomes a great prize and is eagerly added to the 
collection. In view of this, and that there are 
over a hundred stitches in common use, it is well 
to make the sampler sufficiently large. 



When holland — the smooth, shiny holland — is 
used, no additional background is needed. When 
cambric is used, it is necessary to line it with a sheet 
of strong but not too stiff paper, or a light weight 
canvas. With narrow tape or Battenberg braid a 
part of this sampler is checked off in one-inch 
squares and the remainder in oblongs one inch by 
one-half inch in size, as shown in Fig. 4. The 
squares are for the networks and wheels, while 
the oblongs are for insertions and bars. The 
braid presents a very neat 
appearance, and is delight- 
fully firm if it is first basted 
in place and then stitched 
through the centre on the 
machine. The last piece of 
braid to be attached should 
be the one that passes around 
the others like a frame and 
covers up the cut ends of 
the braid. Or a sampler 
may be made on an all-over 
lace pattern; this would 
show the best application of the different stitches 
to the various shaped spaces. 



Fig. 4. Diagram of Sam 
pleb for Lace Stitches 



Lace Stitches. Bars. 




> i h J j a j a a i b t 



Fig. 5. Plain Twisted 
Bar. 



ACE stitches may be classified as bars, 
wheels, insertions, and networks. The 
first two are used in filling in the back- 
ground of designs, while the insertions 

and networks are reserved for the filling in of 

the design itself. 

Sorrento Bars. 

The plain twisted bar, Fig. 5, also called the Sor- 
rento bar, is the simplest of all stitches. The 
thread is fastened securely in the proper place and 
carried across the space to be 
filled, where it is held smoothly 
over the pattern and again 
secured either by passing it 
through the edge of the braid 
or fastening it with a button- 
hole knot. The work is then 
held so that the first fastening 
of the thread is away from the 
worker and the second attach- 
ing is nearer. The needle is 
then repeatedly passed under 
the bar, and the working thread drawn tightly 
each time, until the opposite end of the bar is 
reached. 

The overcasting away from instead of toward 
the worker secures a better twist or rope effect, 
and each twisting or overcasting of the thread 
helps to keep the preceding overcastings in place, 
and avoids the loop in the nearer end of the bar, 
where the thread turns back upon itself. 

The working thread is carried from one com- 
pleted bar to the point from which another is be- 
gun by a series of overcasting stitches along the 
selvage of the braid. 

The double twisted bar, Fig. 6, is formed by 
casting three threads across the space to be filled. 
These threads are stretched 
just sufficiently to cause them 
to lie in a straight line between 
the braids without pulling them 
from their places. They are 
then overcast together in an 
open effect that allows the 
foundation threads to show 
between the coiling of the over- 
casting thread, which winds 
F t» [stki. 1 bar LE around them like a tendril. 




These bars may be arranged according to fancy, 
and are grouped in clusters of three, arranged in 
points and in rays from a common centre, or are 
placed in parallel lines, when they are sometimes 
tied through the centre with a series of buttonhole 
knots, and this tying thread overcast as are the 
bars. 

Plain Buttonhole Bar. 

When a bar heavier than the twisted bars is 
desired, the plain buttonhole bar may be used, as 
in Fig. 7. The thread is fastened securely and 
carried across the space to be filled two, three, or 
four times, according to the weight or size of the 
bar desired. The working 
thread is then carried one 
loop of the braid-edge 
lower than the one into 
which the foundation 
threads are placed, and the 
entire bar filled closely and 
smoothly with a row of 
buttonhole stitches, which 
may be worked either from 
left to right, or from right 
to left; but the former is 
the easier, as the thread 
does not have to be thrown 
around into position, but falls in place with the 
working of each stitch. The carrying of the 
working thread one loop of the braid-edge be- 
low the foundation threads of the bar keeps the 
finished bar in place, and avoids all tendency to 
curl or twist out of shape. For the same rea- 
son, when the end of the bar is reached, the 
thread is fastened just below the last stitch. 
Where a series of bars is to be worked, the work- 
ing thread is overcast along the braid-edge to the 
desired position of the second bar, and the process 
repeated. These buttonhole bars may be grouped 
in various ways, and are often called Point de 
Venise bars. 

Buttonholed Bars with Pinned Picots. 

When open picots (also called dots or purls) are 
desired on the buttonholed bar, they are formed 
as the work proceeds, at intervals of halves, thirds, 
quarters, or according to whatever arrangement is 
chosen. See Fig. 8. A small pin is thrust into 




Fig. 7. Plain Button- 
hole Bar. 



the pattern at a distance from the bar correspond- 
ing with the desired length of the picot. The 
working thread is passed under the pin, and is 
carried over and behind the foundation threads, 
and outside of the loop held down by the pin. 
The needle is then thrust with a buttonhole stitch, 
at right angles to the bar, under the pinned loop 
and the other thread, which has just reappeared 



tI!8 ofe 

















" 






































i_n 






























» 








txi 


















LU 






" J 



PIG. 8. BUTTONHOLE Bak 

with Pinned Picot. 



Fig. 9. Buttonhole Bar 
with Picot. 



from behind the foundation threads. This button- 
hole stitch is then drawn tightly to the bar, and 
close to the last buttonhole stitch on the bar. The 
buttonholing is then continued until another picot 
is desired, when the process is repeated. When it 
is desired that more than one buttonhole stitch is 
to bind the picot in place, the first one is fastened 
sufficiently far from the bar to allow the others 
to be fitted closely between it and the bar, as is 
shown in Fig. 9. 

Bar with Buttonhole Picot. 

In making the buttonhole picot, the button- 
holing of the prepared foundation threads is 
continued for six or more stitches beyond the 
point where the picot is to begin; or, in other 
words, the buttonholing is continued to the farther 
end of the proposed picot. The thread is then 
carried back to the sixth 
stitch, and passed between 
it and the seventh. It is 
then carried forward again 
and over the foundation 
threads close to the end of 
the buttonholing. Again it 
is carried back to the sixth 
buttonhole and secured. 
The needle is then thrust 
between the seventh and 
eighth buttonhole stitches. 
This is done to prevent the 
end of the picot from curling up out of place. 









■nm'jij 


t 










































j H 














































. ^ 






■ n 












: = 










« 



























Fig. 10. Bar with Button- 
holed Picot. 



The three foundation threads just made are then 
buttonholed until the picot is completed. The 
remainder of the bar is then buttonholed. 

Bar with Two Rows of Dots. 

One of the prettiest and most effective bar 
stitches consists of a foundation of two threads, 
upon which are worked two rows of buttonhole 
knots. One of these rows being on each side of 
the foundation threads, causes both sides of the 
finished bar to be exactly alike. The working 
thread is fastened to the braid at the right-hand 
end of the proposed bar, and is carried across to 
the opposite side, and there secured to the braid 
by passing the needle under one thread of the 
braid edge. It is then returned to the right side, 
and the buttonhole knots placed along the lower 
side or edge of the foundation threads. 

The first stitch is a regular buttonhole stitch ; 
the second is a reversed buttonhole stitch. This is 
worked in the following manner: The thread is 
held securely close to the just completed button- 
hole stitch, by placing the left thumb upon it. 
The loose end of the thread (the end on which 
the needle is threaded) is then drawn upwards 
toward the end of the thumb, and secured beneath 
it, thus forming a loop 
whose loose end is the 
one nearer the foundation 
threads. The needle is then 
passed back of the two 
foundation threads, over the 
upper or nearer thread of 
the thumb-held loop. 

This reversed buttonhole 
stitch is drawn closely to 
the foundation threads. The 
result is two close button- 
hole stitches secured by a 
tiny bar of the thread be- 
neath them, and parallel to 
the foundation threads. The next regular button- 
hole stitch is placed upon the foundation threads 
just far enough from the former pair to permit the 
filling in of the space between by the pair of stitches 
to be worked from the other side. The reversed 
buttonhole stitch is then placed close to its com- 
panion, and the work so continued to the end of 
the foundation threads, which will show groups 
of two buttonhole stitches at regular intervals 
along its length. 




Fig. 11. Bab with Two 
Rows of Dots. 



The entire pattern is then reversed, bringing 
the unfinished side of the bar into position for 
completion. A group of the two buttonhole knots, 
the first regular and the second reversed, is then 
inserted in each of the spaces left for this pur- 
pose. The result is a closely covered bar of intri- 
cate appearance, and of a very braid-like "effect. 
In fact, the ambitious worker may accomplish a 
piece of lace which, though containing a braid, is 
entirely hand made. To do this, a long, narrow 
strip of holland, or paper-lined cambric, is secured. 
The ends are then basted together, and a large 
hoop or ring thus formed. To this the two foun- 
dation threads are couched at regular intervals in 
a straight line, circling the hoop a number of 
times sufficient to furnish the required length of 
braid. 

The pairs of buttonhole knots are then worked 
down the length of the threads on one side of the 
foundation threads. The holland hoop is then 
reversed, and the other side of the braid com- 
pleted. The couching threads are then cut, and 
the dainty strip of "braid" released. The loop- 
like appearance of the edges furnish very excel- 
lent openings for the needle, when the filling-in 
stitches are placed. 

A wider braid may be secured by increasing the 
number of foundation threads, which may also be 
of a larger size than the filling-in stitches, if so 
desired. A very pretty network results from the 
use of this pair of regular and reversed buttonhole 
stitches. The work is done in rows, and is exactly 
like the Brussels net two-stitch, except that the 
second buttonhole stitch of each pair is reversed. 

Raleigh Bars. 

Another form of the buttonhole stitch bars is 
called the Raleigh bar. In this stitch the foun- 
dation bars are first laid throughout the space 
to be filled, using a coarse thread. These bars are 
often put in sufficiently loose that they may be 
twisted by the working thread several times before 
the next loop is made. This twisted .length serves 
as another division, and increases the desired irreg- 
ular appearance of the bars. After the foundation 
threads are all in place the buttonholing is accom- 
plished with occasional picots, either pinned, lace, 
or bullion, worked at irregular intervals. 

This stitch may be worked in a regular design 
of squares or triangles, but its chief beauty lies in 
its irregularity of form. 




Fig. 12. Raleigh Bars. 

Bar with Picot Made in Bullion Stitch. 

The foundation threads are prepared as for the 
plain buttonhole bar. These threads are covered 
with buttonhole stitches set close together until 
the place where the picot is to be placed is reached. 
The needle is then thrust part way through the 
last buttonhole stitch, and 
the thread wound from left 
to right ten to twenty times 
around its point. These coils 
of thread must be drawn up 
closely and evenly along the 
length of the needle, but not 
so tightly that it is difficult 
or impossible to draw the 
needle through them. The 
left thumb is placed upon 
the coil, and the needle 
drawn through with the fin- 
gers of the right hand. The 
thread is pulled up so tightly that the coil is drawn 
almost into a semicircle. The buttonholing of the 
bar, against which the picot will rest securely, is 
continued until the point for the next picot is 
reached. 

This coiling of the thread about the needle may 
be used in various ways. At the intersection of 
two twisted bars four bullion picots, meeting at 
the point of intersection, may be placed one be- 
tween each right angle formed by the meeting 
of the twisted threads. See Fig. 14. A space 
filled with a network of lines at right angles, 
forming a checkerboard appearance when com- 
pleted, with a quartet of these bullion picots at 



TfTrrTTTfT 3 

nmjp^fl Un it n 

kx^ ^* KS B XX 

I . II 171. . H ^^a, sx 31 IT 



Fig. 13. Buttonholed 
Bar with Picot in 
Bullion Stitch. 



8 




Fig. 14. 



Way of Working Quatrefoil 
in Bullion Stitch. 



each intersection, is very effective. Closely worked 

networks may 
be embellished 
with good ef- 
fect, as shown 
in Fig. 15. The 
needle in this 
case is passed 
down through 
the completed 
network at the 
point which is 
to be the centre 
of the figure, 
and it reap- 
pears through 
the network at the point which is to be the outer 
end of the figure. The thread is then coiled 
around the point of the needle a sufficient num- 
ber of times to fill the space between the disap- 
pearance and reappearance of the needle. The 
thumb is placed upon the coil, and the needle and 
thread drawn through until the coils are closely 
held together, but in a straight line. The needle 
is then thrust through the point where it made its 
former disappearance, and the coil lies on the net- 
work like a tiny leaf. Clusters of three or four of 
these coils meeting at a common centre are very 
effective. 

The rounded bullion picot may also be worked 
upon a completed network, and when it is desired 

to have it lie flat, a 
stitch may be taken 
through the network 
and the under-side of 
the picot, thus fasten- 
ing the coiled loop se- 
curely to the network. 
Three bullion picot 
coils meeting at a cen- 
tre, and with a worked 
stem attached, make a very pretty clover leaf. 
See Fig. 15. 

Branched Bars, or Buttonholed Bars. 

"When it is desired to fill with bars spaces too 
wide to admit of the use of any of the bar stitches 
already given, branched bars will be very appropri- 
ate. They may be used with good effect, also, 
in filling in backgrounds. A piece of lace 




Fio. 15. Trefoils in Bullion 
Stitch Worked on Button- 
holed Foundation. 




Fig. IB. Branched But- 
tonhole Bars. 



whose background is filled 
with branched buttonholed 
bars presents an especially 
rich appearance, and the 
extra time and labor neces- 
sary to accomplish this back- 
ground is fully repaid by 
the beauty of the result. 

The usual foundation of 
three threads is laid loosely 
across one corner of the 
space to be filled. These 
foundation threads are then 
closely buttonholed for about 
half their length, when the working thread is car- 
ried to the point selected for the end of the next, 
loop. A second and third passing of the thread 
supplies the new foundation for this next loop, 
which is then- buttonholed for half its length, 
when a third foundation is prepared. 

This is continued until the spacing of the bars 
is accomplished. When in the placing of these 
bars it is necessary to complete the buttonholing 
of an unfinished bar before another is begun, it 
should be done, but the work should be so planned 
that the thread need never be broken, but will 
pass in a continuous circuit from bar to bar. 

All the bars being placed, the work of complet- 
ing the buttonholing of them is begun. The com- 
pletion of one loop brings the working thread to 
the next unfinished bar awaiting completion, and 
so, one by one, the buttonholing of the bars is 
completed. 

Bar with Lace Picot. 

The lace picots are formed somewhat differently. 
See Fig. 17. The pin is placed as for the open 
pinned picots, and the thread passed around it 
and over and behind the foundation threads as 
before, but reappears in- 
side or between the sides of 
the loop. The pin should 
be far enough from the bar 
to allow four buttonhole 
stitches to be set snugly 
upon the loop. The first 
one should be placed as 
near the pin as possible, 
in order to cover entirely 
„ „ „ the foundation loop. The 

Fig. 17. Buttonhole Bar x 

with lace picot. other three stitches should 



i '»' h (i ' i ' 




















LL 










5b8g! 
























J fft n 



follow the first ones closely and evenly, the last 
one lying against the last buttonhole stitch of 
the bar. 

Point d'Anvers Bars. 

For the filling in of leaf -shaped spaces, and used 
as an insertion for long narrow spaces, Point d'An- 
vers bars are equally good. The thread is fastened 
at the middle of one end of the space to be filled, 
and carried along the 
edge of the braid, one 
stitch to the right. It 
is then brought across 
the length of the space 
and attached to the 
braid, the same distance 
from the centre of the 
space as it is removed 
by the overcasting stitch 
at the opposite end. 
The thread is then car- 
r i e d by overcasting 
stitches a distance to 
the left, equally distant 
from the centre. It is 
then carried back in a 

parallel line to the opposite, or first end of the 
.space, and fastened. The two lines of thread should 




Fig. 18. Point d'Anveks Bar. 



be perfectly parallel, and drawn tightly across the 
space, but not so tightly that they will draw the 
braid out of place. Keeping these foundation 
threads absolutely parallel, the working thread is 
passed in a darning or weaving stitch over and 
under them for the desired distance. Then the 
first pair of side loops or leaflets is made. The 
process of the weaving brings the working thread 
over the right bar. It is then passed behind it 
and over the left bar as during the preceding weav- 
ing, and is passed through the edge of the braid at 
the left side of the space, with the point of the 
needle toward the already woven end of the work. 
The thread is then passed under the left bar and 
over the right as before, and, with the point of the 
needle thrust from the woven end of the work, is 
carried through the edge of the braid, at the right 
side of the space. It is then brought under the 
right bar and under the last passing of the thread 
across the bars. It is then passed behind the left 
bar and over the right, and the two side loops 
being in place, the weaving of the bar is continued 
until the place for the next pair of side loops is 
reached, when the process is repeated. This is con- 
tinued until the filling of the space is completed. 
For short connecting bars the Point d'Anvers bar is 
sometimes used without the side loops. 



Wheels or Spiders. 




JHEELS or spiders are made on a foun- 
dation of plain twisted bars. The 
number of bars depends on the size of 
the space. They are cast across the 
space to be filled at distances from each other, and 





Fig. 19. Spinning Wheel. Fig. 20. Spinning Wheel. 

in such a manner that they all cross in the centre 
the space. They form diameters, whose halves of 
are radii of a circle. The first bar divides the 
space into halves and is overcast back to the start- 



ing-point. The thread is then overcast along the 
edge of the braid for the required distance and 
again carried across the space, crossing the first 
thread and entering the braid at the right place 
and overcast back to its beginning. This is re- 
peated until the last bar has been overcast to the 
centre, when all the threads may be fastened to 
gether with a buttonhole knot or not, as preferred 
The spider is then woven. 

This is accomplished by passing the needle over 
and under the different radii formed by the bars 
and keeping the woven thread drawn tightly or 
snugly to the centre. This is continued until the 
spider is of sufficient size, when the remaining ra- 
dius or half bar is overcast and the thread cut. 

There are various kinds of spiders. The sim- 
plest is shown in Fig. 19, and is formed by the 
regular over and under weaving of the radii, and 
results in keeping every alternate radius on the 



10 




Fig. 21. Spinminq Wheel 
with Knotted Cikcles. 



them 



upper side of the spider when finished. The 
thread occasionally passed 
between the two twisted 
threads of a radius will 
keep the circling thread of 
the spider from rolling upon 
itself. Another effect is pro- 
duced by skipping one ra- 
dius in every circuit of the 
thread forming the spider. 
This alternates the thread 
over and under the same radius and hide 
all from view, as shown in Fig. 20. 

In many uneven places the putting in of the 
bars may be so regulated that their completion 
permits a final half bar, or a radius, instead of a 
diameter. This is carried to the centre and the 
spider woven as before. Here the odd number of 
radii admits, in fact necessitates, the continual al- 
ternating of the bars or radii. 

A pretty result is obtained by circling the spider 
with one, two, or more rows of the thread, tied at 
each radius with a buttonhole knot as shown in 
Fig. 21. These circles are to be perfectly true and 
equally distant from the spider. To form these 
circles the last radius is overcast two or three 
times, and the series of knots tied around the spider 
at each radius. Upon completing the circle a few 
more overcasting stitches carries the thread a 
sufficient distance, and a second circle is knotted 
in. When enough circles have been made, the rest 
of the radius is overcast and the thread fastened 
off. Smaller spiders, Point de Venise "shells," 
and other similar stitches may be placed at the 
tying of each knot, and become very effective. 

Spinning Wheel Rosettes. 

The spinning wheel rosettes, Figs. 22 and 23, 
also called ribbed wheels, are made on a founda- 




tion of twisted threads crossing in the centre simi- 
lar to the foundation threads for the spider or 
wheel before given. The working thread is carried 
under two radii, drawn up closely and firmly in 
place. The needle is then passed under the second 
of these radii, and also under the next one (see 
Fig. 23), and the thread 
is again drawn into posi- 
tion. In this manner the 
working thread is always 
carried back over the last 
radius under which it 

passed, and forward under 
Fig. 22. Spinning Wheel tne uext one T bj s resiuts 
Rosette. . ... 

m a raised twist or coil 

over each radius as shown in the finished wheel, 
Fig. 22. When the lace is being made with the 
right side next the pattern, these ribbed wheels 
must be made wrong 
side up. To do this 
the needle is thrust 
under one radius at a 
time, with the point 
of the needle toward 
both the worker and 
the last radius around 
which the thread has 
passed. The thread 
is then carried over 
the radius and on to 
the next one, where 
the process is re- 
peated. The two ways 
may be combined, and 
the result is a very 
effective rosette that 
is often seen in drawn work. The centre is worked 
with the coil on the upper or working side for a 
sufficient space, when for a similar space the work 
is reversed, and the coil worked on the under side. 




Fig. 23. Detail of Spinning 
Wheel Rosette. 



11 



Insertions. 





Plain Russian Stitch. 

,HE plain Russian 

stitch, Fig. 24, is 

the simplest of the 

insertions, and, like 
all insertions, is suitable for 
long, narrow spaces in the 
design of the pattern. This 
is accomplished by a series 
of buttonhole stitches, alternat- 
ing from one side of the space 

Fig. 24. Plain Rcs- 

to the other. SIAN stitch. 

The thread is securely fastened in the upper, or 
farther, left-hand corner. It is then brought for- 
ward over the space and held against the pattern 
by the left thumb. The needle is then thrust 
through the braid on the right side of the space, 
with the needle pointing directly across toward 
the braid at the left side. The thread is carried 
through the braid and again secured by the left 
thumb. The work is then repeated from the left 
side of the space, with the needle pointing toward 
the right side. Holding the thread down with the 
thumb makes it impossible to make a wrong twist, 
as the needle never passes under the thread held 
in this way. 

This stitch may be varied by tying each cross- 
ing thread in the middle with a buttonhole knot. 

Twisted Russian Stitch. 

The twisted Russian stitch, Fig. 25, is a trifle 
more complicated. As in the former, the stitches 
alternate from right to left, but the method of hold- 
ing the thread down with the left thmnb differs. 

The thread is fastened at 
the upper left-hand corner and 
carried forward over the space 
to be filled. The thumb is 
then placed upon it as near 
the point of fastening as is 
practical, and the thread is 
brought to the right and again 
slipped under the thumb, form- 
ing an open loop, upon both 
sides of which the thumb rests. 
The needle is then thrust 
through the edge of the braid 
at the right, with the point directed to the op- 




Fig. 25. Twisted Bus 
sian Stitch. 



posite left. It is then passed over the right-hand 
thread of the loop, under the left-hand thread, and 
drawn up. It is well to leave the thumb on the loop 
till the stitch is nearly completed, as it avoids 
tangling the thread and causes a more even 
twist- 
Again the thumb holds down the thread, which 
is then brought up on the left side and slipped 
under the thumb as before. The needle is thrust 
through the braid at the left over the loose side of 
the loop and under the other or right side. This 
is repeated until the space is filled. 

The same effect' may be produced by using the 
plain Russian stitch, and with an overcasting stitch 
producing the extra twist; but this takes more 
time and is not as even in results. 

Column Stitch. 

Column stitch, shown in Fig. 26, is a combina- 
tion of plain and twisted Russian stitch. Each 
stitch on one side of the space to be filled is a 
plain Russian stitch, while all those on the other 
side are twisted Russian stitches, with the work- 
ing thread passed three or more times around the 
already twisted thread. This stitch makes a very 
pretty insertion for either 
straight or curved spaces. 
In the latter, the twisted 
side of the stitch may be 
at the outer curve of the 
place to be filled, and the 
twisted threads will radiate 
evenly outwards. The op- 
posite effect may be obtained 
by reversing the order of 
the stitches, when the coils 
of the twisted side will con- 
verge, and, if the curve is 
pronounced, will almost meet, and have the ap- 
pearance of the spokes of a wheel. 

Insertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch. 

Along both sides of the long, narrow space to be 
filled, a row of Brussels net (single buttonhole) 
stitches is worked very evenly and quite loosely. 
If the space is a curve the stitches along the inner 
or smaller side of the space must be made closer 
together, in order that the stitches of the two rows 




Fig. 20. Column Stitch. 



12 



will be in pairs, with each loop of the inner side 
between two loops of the opposite side. This 



WMUMWk 


1. J. — r— H — — 












i . b .h. h. m 


. Jl. B .H JL 





Fig. 27. Insertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch. 

arrangement places a loop opposite every button- 
hole stitch on either side of the space, and makes 
an even, regular spacing for the Russian stitch, 
which connects the two rows of net stitches. To 
do this the thread is fastened at one end of one of 
the rows of net stitches, and is carried from side 
to side, looping into each net stitch in turn. This 
connecting stitch may be either plain or twisted 
Russian stitch, or, as shown in the cut, may be 
plain Russian on one side, and twisted Russian on 
the other. Column stitch may also be used. 

Insertion of Buttonhole Stitch. 

A very pleasing variation of the foregoing stitch 
is made by arranging the single rows of Brussels 
net stitches with the loops directly opposite each 
other. The space between the two rows is then 
filled with a row of double Russian stitch. This 
is made by placing two stitches of either plain or 



rp 




























= 












/\XAY Mm MaY YlAT Mm 
J~~^ (Mm JWhS (ail IwQi JWw 








™= 








\mX\ 




































,;SfH!L 


1 






K 







Fig. 28. Insertion of Buttonhole Stitch. 

twisted Russian stitch in each loop. Where a 
close or compact insertion is desired, triple or 
quadruple Russian stitch may be used. This is 
accomplished by placing three or four Russian 
stitches in each loop. For all ordinary purposes 
double, or at most triple, Russian stitch is all that 
is necessary. A more or less compact effect will 
be gained bv using a finer or coarser thread. 



Insertion with Cones. 

When a heavy, showy effect is desired, cone 
insertion may be used. The working thread is 
fastened to the middle of one end of the space to 
be filled. A single row of plain Russian stitch is 
worked throughout the length of the space. The 
stitches of this Russian insertion must be placed at 
regular intervals, but somewhat far apart. Upon 
this as a foundation, the cones are placed. These 
cones are worked over each pair of threads diverg- 
ing from the braid. The working thread is at- 
tached to the point of divergence of the first two 
threads, which is, in other words, the point where 
the thread forming the Russian stitch is first 
attached to the braid. The thread is then carried 
by means of the needle over and under these two 
diverging threads until a closely woven, cone-shaped 
figure, reaching from its point at the edge of the 









U 1 J 


E CCO 




1 


i 
























ff 


T|3. 


En 


Tin 




i 


p::: ~ 






A J 










^jEf^ ^1? ^& »? =:: = 








3 _ _ 






i« ::: 






; C 




iik 


i i 












I 




























1 


IE 






j5 




V 








CD 



Fig. 29. Insertion with Cones. 

braid to the middle of the width of the space, is 
finished. 

The working thread is then carried by means of 
a series of overcasting or twisting threads along 
the other half of the thread which is to form one 
foundation or side of the first cone on the other side 
of the space. The braid being reached, the thread 
is carried through the open margin of the braid at 
the point where the thread of the Russian stitch 
enters. A cone is woven over these threads, and 
the working thread carried as before to the adjoin- 
ing threads on the opposite side of the space. 

Insertion with Reversed Cones. 

A still more massive effect is produced by revers- 
ing the cones, and in this way having their bases 
rest upon the braid along the sides of the space to 
be filled, and the points of each pair of opposite 
cones meeting at the centre of the width of the 
space. 

The first row of plain Russian stitch is worked 
throughout the length of the space as before. A 



13 



second row of the same stitch is then worked over 
the first in such a manner that the working thread 
is attached to the braid just half way between the 
attachments of the first row. This results in the 
threads of the two rows crossing each other exactly 



- 1 AUIl 


EC " 


i i/ .:, i M u M o, J 






TT7T " T I mi "ill II * T ' 


: j -fix 


:5c . 


QT rij n i| I- 


=| = /^= 


xc!; 




T^t *■■'- 


Jiiftj 


m 


km 


m^r- 



Fig. 30. Insertion with Reversed Coxes. 

in the centre of the width of the space. The work- 
ing thread is then carried over and under the first 
two threads that will meet in the centre. The 
weaving thread having arrived at the point where 
the threads cross each other, the point or apex 
of the opposite cone is reached, and the weaving 
continued over these two threads until the second 
cone is completed at the arrival of the working 
thread at the edge of the opposite braid. The 
succeeding pairs of cones are worked in the same 
manner. 

Beaded Insertion or D'Alencon. 

As in Fig. 27 a row of Brussels net stitches, 
with the long loops opposite each other, is worked 
on both sides of the narrow space to be filled. 
The working thread is then carried once around 
the end loop to which it is nearest, and that 
loop and the one opposite are then joined to- 
gether by four connecting loops, which must lie 
in close parallel lines. They must never cross or 
lie upon each other. To make these loops the 
needle is thrust under the loop at the right side of 



n 






































TX 



















































Fig. 31. Beaded Insertion, or D'Alencon Bars. 

the space, across to the opposite loop, under which 
also the needle passes, and is drawn out between 
the loop and the braid. This is repeated the other 



three times necessary to make the " bead " of four 
threads. At the completion of one "bead," the 
working thread is carried once around the filled 
net loop, and once around the next one, which is 
then joined, as was the first pair, to the next op- 
posite net loop. This brings all the overcasting 
of the net loops, when carrying the thread from 
one pair of stitches to the next, on the same side 
of the work. 

Insertion with Small Wheels. 

To make this pretty stitch, the space to be 
filled is first covered with an insertion of plain 
Russian stitch, having the distance between the 
stitches on either side of the braid just twice as 
far apart as you desire them to be in the com- 
pleted work. A second row of plain Russian 
stitch is then worked over the first, with the 
stitches on either side of the braid exactly half 
way between those of the 
former row. The threads 
of the two rows of stitches 
cross each other in the mid- 
dle of the space, and form a 
series of diamonds and tri- 
angles, and the result is a 
very pretty insertion with- 
out further work. 

To place the wheels at 
the points of intersection 
of the threads, the working 
thread is first carried to 
the middle of one end of 
the space, and then to the 
crossing of the first two threads. Here, if desired, 
a knot may fasten them together, but it is not 
necessary, and the effect is better if the weaving 
of the wheels is begun over the crossing of the 
loose threads. There being an uneven number of 
threads (five), the weaving thread will alternate 
over and under into a basket weave that will hold 
the work securely in place. The completion of 
each wheel must be on the side nearest the next 
wheel to be worked. The needle is passed behind 
or under two threads of the finished wheel, and to 
the next point of intersection (see Fig. 32), where 
the next wheel is worked. 

When it is desired to make the work more elab- 
orate, half wheels may be worked at each or at 
every alternate connection of the thread with the 
braid. These half wheels are formed by weaving 







i° 


ii ij i :~ 




















Ji 11 i ] ~ 




























'/rtS^'^ " : 3 " 


= 




*f^JE;j = 


llsJ \ - 






= 






32>5=£S^ : + 








J^M=| = 



Fig. 32. Insertion with 

Small Wheels. 



14 



the working thread through the edge of the braid, 
over and under the two diverging threads, and 
through the edge of the braid on the other side 
until the half wheel is of sufficient size. 

Bars of Point d'Angleterre. 

Insertion with big wheels. When a more showy 
insertion is desired, a design with larger wheels 
may be used. To accomplish this a thread is car- 
ried lengthwise across the middle of the space to 
be filled and fastened into position in the braid at 
the ends of the space. The working thread is 
then carried by means of overcasting stitches 
along the open edge of the braid to the corner of 
the space. A loose loop is then formed across 
this end of the space by passing the working 
thread through the opposite corner, and leaving 
the loop loose enough to form the vertical half of 
a diamond-shaped space. The thread is then car- 
ried by means of overcasting stitches a sufficient 
distance along the braid at the side of the space to 
be filled. 

The needle is then thrust over the former loop, 
under the horizontal thread that was first carried 

across the length 
of the space, and 
again over the 
thread of the 
loop. It is then 
carried to the op- 
posite side of the 
space and fas- 
tened to the edge 
of the braid at 
exactly the same 
distance from the corner as is its opposite end from 
the other corner. The thread is then carried di- 
rectly across the space from one end of this second 
or inverted, loop to the other, and just tightly 
enough to form a straight line across the space. 
This thread is then overcast to the middle of the 
space, where a wheel of four or more circlings of 
the threads is woven with the thread passing each 
time over the same threads of the intersection. 

Should the circles of the resulting wheels be 
prone to slip out of place the needle may be thrust 
between the two threads of the twisted length, but 
with careful work this will not be necessary. The 
wheel being completed, the thread is carried back 
of it to its opposite side, where the other half of 
the straight thread is overcast and the needle 



- 1- 


























= 1= 


jf^L^MM_\ — 


g a^y %,^^^/%^ 






~" tt " 




















Tf 




^T 



Fig. 33. Insertion'with Large Wheels. 



passed through the braid. From this point a new 
loop is formed, reaching from one end of the 
straight twisted thread to the other. The thread 
is then carried along the braid and the work con- 
tinued. 

The beauty of this insertion lies in the exactness 
with which it is made. The space between the 
straight threads must always be exactly the same, 
and the loops must all be of the same length, so 
that each diamond may be exactly like its neigh- 
bors, and surround a wheel exactly the size of all 
the other wheels. 

Insertion with Branches. 

These are two very pretty leaf or branched in- 
sertions. They are especially appropriate for oval 
or leaf-shaped openings. The working thread is 
fastened to the middle of one end of the space to 
be filled and carried to the middle of the opposite 
end of the space, where it is carried by the needle 
under four or five threads of the open edge of the 
braid. This ensures the rounded open shape of 
the leaflet. The needle is then thrust, in a similar 
manner, under the same number of threads, along 
the left side of the braid near the upper end of the 
space, with the needle pointed upwards. The loop 
so formed is left slack or loose enough to form the 
loose, open loops at the braid edges, and, for the 
middle of the loop, to lie close to the lengthwise 
thread or midrib to which it is soon to be tied. 










rr 









































Fig. 34. Insertion with 
Branches. 



Fig. 35 Insertion with 
Branches. 



The thread is then carried horizontally across the 
space, and the needle thrust with its point directed 
downwards under four or five threads of the braid. 
The thread is then carried in the midrib, and the 
needle thrust behind or under the first or left-side 
leaflet, the midrib and the second or right-side 
leaflet, and under the point of the needle, which is 



15 



then drawn through, and the thread tightened in 
the buttonhole knot which results. This com- 
pletes the first group of leaflets. The needle is 
then again thrust into the braid at. the left side of 
the space, and the second pair of leaflets begun. 

After the leaflets are tied together with the but- 
tonhole knot, the working thread may be carried 
alternately over the leaves and under the midrib, cir- 
cling the knot a sufficient number of times to make 
a wheel or rosette at the intersection of the leaflets. 

Leaf Insertion. 

An insertion with leaves in darning stitch is 
excellent where a heavy, rich effect is desired. 
The working thread is attached to the end of the 
space at which the first terminal leaf of the inser- 
tion is to be worked. This thread is then carried 
to the opposite end of the space, thrust through a 
single loop of the braid, and carried back, un- 
twisted, to the starting point. It is then carried 
to the left side of the space, and attached to the 
braid at that point by having the needle thrust 
under not more than two 
threads of the open edge 
of the braid. The thread 
is then carried to the right 
side of the space, and 
caught into the braid in 
the same manner at a point 
exactly opposite the point 
of attachment on the left 
side. The thread is then 
brought back to the mid- 
rib, or two long threads. 
The needle is then thrust 
behind all the threads, and drawn up in a tight 
buttonhole knot, as is shown in the illustration 
for insertion with branches, Fig. 34. 

The thread is then carried, for a second time, 
around the terminal or first leaf, which is then filled 
from point to knot with a close succession of darn- 
ing stitches over and under the threads outlining 
the leaf. At the completion of this leaf, the thread 
is carried around the left leaf, and passed again 
through the braid at its point. This makes three 




Fig. 36. Leap Insertion. 



foundation threads on one side, and two on the 
other side of the leaf. When an effect not so heavy 
is desired, the thread passing all around the leaf 
may be omitted. This makes two foundation 
threads on one side and one on the other, and is 
somewhat more difficult to darn. This leaf is then 
darned, after which the leaf on the right side is 
finished in a similar manner. 

The outlines for the second pair of side leaves 
are then made and tied to the midrib with a but- 
tonhole knot as were the first two. The working 
thread is then passed one and a half times around 
the two threads of the midrib that is to form the 
middle of the next trio of leaves. The needle is 
passed through the knot each time at the point of 
this leaf. This is at the base of the completed 
trio of leaves above. The middle leaf is then 
filled with the darning stitch, as are each of the 
side leaves. The work proceeds in this way until 
the entire space is filled. 

Cluster Insertion. 

This is one of the most charming and use- 
ful of the insertions, and the ease with which 
it is made increases its popularity. It is equally 
appropriate for straight or curved spaces. Two 
twisted parallel bars are worked, and the thread 
for the third bar carried across and overcast nearly 
to the middle, when the three bars, two twisted 
and one incomplete, are joined by fine, tight but- 
tonhole stitches, worked over them close together. 
The twisting of the third 
bar is then completed. 

The first and third bars 
of each group should be j ust 
loose or slack enough to 
admit of their being fas- 
tened, by the buttonhole 
stitches, to the middle bar, 
without drawing the braid 
out of place. The first bar 
of each succeeding trio 
should be placed close to 
the last bar of the preced- 
tion. ing group. 



A ^vrrrr 


X£ 










™ ; i <8-^w^^fj 




a \ g aCLy^*^ ^^i* 




1 ** : t+ ' J fM- jtj >>mTf^Vc4 




n ■ 5 a | [ 




u : g b / 





Fig. 37 



16 






Network Stitches. 




loosely. 




Single Net Stitch. 

•INGLE net stitch, called Brussels point 
(Point de Bruxelles), is the foundation 
of many of the net stitches, and consists 
of rows of buttonhole stitches worked 
The beauty of this stitch lies in the even- 
ness and regularity of the stitches. The loops 
should all be of the same length, and the buttonhole 
stitches must fall in even lines, forming parallel 
diagonal lines both from the upper right-hand cor- 
ner toward the lower left, and from the upper left 
toward the lower right. The chief difficulty in 
working this stitch is at the ends of the rows. 
The loops form diamond-shaped spaces, and great 
care must be taken at the ends of each row to so 
place the stitches that the fractional spaces shall 

be true parts of whole 
spaces. A little care 
in regulating the dis- 
tance along its edge, 
in carrying the 
thread to position 
for the next row of 
stitches, and trial 
placing of the thread 
to note the effect, will soon lead to great profi- 
ciency in this respect. Every loop should, in the 
following row, receive a buttonhole stitch, and all 
widening and narrowing must be done at the ends 
of the rows. The stitches must be kept even, and 
the loops of the same size. When this is done, 
the widening and narrowing attends to itself. The 
worker should never attempt to retain the same 
number of stitches in every row throughout an 
irregular space. The space must regulate the 
number of stitches, and accommodate only just 
so many as there is room for when keeping them 
at their regular size. This stitch may be made 
with large open loops, giving a very open, lacy 
effect, or the loops may be made small, and conse- 
quently the work much more close in appearance. 
Both for background and for filling in, this is a 
very useful stitch, and will be found especially 
desirable for large spaces. 

Venice originated Point proper, which may have 
been worked there in isolated instances before 
1600, but it came prominently forward towards the 
middle of the seventeenth century. Designs given 



Fig. 38. Single Net Stitch. 






Doi ULE Net Stitch. 



in the pattern books of the sixteenth century are 
all of the Reticella type, and cannot be bought 
under designation of real Point. 

Double Net Stitch. 

Double net stitch, also called Point de Sorrento, 
shown in Fig. 39, and the two stitch, is made in 
the same manner as is the single net stitch, except 
that here the loops between the buttonhole stitches 
are somewhat less rounded ; that is, they are drawn 
a little more closely, and, instead of one buttonhole 

stitch, two are made 
close together. In or- 
der to keep them thus 
near each other, the 
second stitch must be 
drawn tightly up to 
the first. The same 
rules as to evenness, 
regularity, widening, 
and narrowing that are given for the single net 
stitch apply to this as well as all other net 
stitches. The two stitch, while taking twice as 
long as the single net stitch, is more easily made 
perfect, as the two stitches aid in keeping the 
work firm and true. This is one of the most sat- 
isfactory of the net stitches. 

Three Stitch. 

The three stitch is also called Point de Sorrento, 
and is identical with the two stitch, except that 
three close buttonhole stitches are used instead of 
two. This results in a heavier, more solid effect. 
If a still closer effect is desired, four buttonhole 
stitches may be used. In this case the intervening 
loop should be just long enough to accommodate 
the four stitches that 
are to be placed in it 
when working the next 
row. These stitches 
may be combined and 
varied in different 
ways. A good effect 
is produced by alter- 
nating first a row of 

single net stitch, and then a row of three stitch. 
Three rows of single net stitch may be followed 
by three rows of the two stitch. In fact it is the 
variation and combination of these stitches that 
form many of the intricate lace stitches. 




Fig. 40. Three Stitch. 



17 




Buttonholed Net 
Stitch. 



Buttonholed Net Stitch. 

Where a network showing a heavy effect is 
desired, buttonholed net stitch is excellent. A 
row of Brussels net is worked with wide, regular 
loops. Into each of these loops is worked a regu- 
lar number of buttonhole stitches sufficient to 
completely fill the loop from one buttonhole stitch 
to the next. The third row is like the first — a 
row of wide Brussels net stitches. Each stitch is 
placed in the little loop between the groups of 
buttonhole stitches of 
the second row. The 
fourth row is like the 
second. When finished 
the groups of close but- 
tonhole stitches should 
form vertical rows across 
the space filled. Care 
should be taken not to 
draw the work to one 
side or the other, and in this way pull these rows 
out of the vertical. In an oblong or long pointed 
space, the group of close stitches at the middle of 
the top row should extend to the extreme point 
of the opposite end. As buttonhole stitch is made 
more readily from the left to the right, the rows 
of close stitches may be worked in that direction, 
and the open rows from right to left. This is 
accomplished by beginning the work at the upper 
right-hand corner. 

Another buttonholed net stitch is shown in Fig. 
42. The first row of this stitch is formed by 
working three buttonhole stitches rather close 
together (with just a little more than room be- 
tween them for another stitch), and then begin- 
ning a second group of three stitches sufficiently 

far from the first to 
make the long loop be- 
tween the two groups 
equal in length to the 
space occupied by the 
groups of three stitches. 
In the second row the 
long loops are nearly 
filled with a close row 
of buttonhole stitches, 
anil a single buttonhole stitch is placed in each of 
the two loops formed between the groups of three 
stitches of the previous row. The third row is 
like the first, and the fourth row is like the second. 
The result is a more open, fanciful arrangement 



■ 



Fig. 42. 



Buttonholed Net 
Stitch. 



of stitches than the preceding pattern, but, like it, 
the rows of close buttonhole stitches form vertical 
lines from end to end of the space filled. 

Point de Venise Stitches. 

Point de Venise, often called shell, seed, or side 
stitch, is very popular, and suitable either for 
edgings or for the filling in of spaces. For the 
former a single row of "shells" is worked around 
the edge of the completed lace. For filling in 
spaces, the work is done in rows. Beginning at 
the right-hand corner of the space to be filled, a 
row of even, rather loose buttonhole stitches is 
worked. The thread is carried down the side of 
the braid the distance equal to the width of a 
stitch. Into the first loop is pilaced a buttonhole 
stitch, and as in the Petit Point de Venise, this 
stitch is tied by another buttonhole stitch worked 
sideways. This stitch should be far enough from 
the top of the buttonhole stitch being covered to 
accommodate three other rather tightly drawn 
buttonhole stitches, which are worked side by side 
and each above its predecessor until the last one 
covers the end of the loop upon which the shell 
is built. This shell being finished, a buttonhole 
stitch is placed in the next loop of the first row, 
and another shell worked upon it. In placing the 
stitches of the shell, the 
needle is thrust under 
and at right angles with 
both threads of the but- 
tonhole stitch to be cov- 
ered. 

The size of the shell 
depends upon the num- 
ber of side stitches 
worked, and upon how tightly they are drawn. 
Four stitches is the usual number. A more curved 
effect is obtained if the first stitch is quite tightly 
drawn, and the others made looser. The row of 
shells being completed, the third row is worked. 
This consists of a row of single net stitches, one 
buttonhole stitch being placed between each shell, 
and the loop drawn up so as to fit like a saucer 
around the shell above it. This gives a rather 
close effect, and is decidedly pretty. Where a 
more open result is desired, the loops may be 
made larger. In this case the loops upon which 
the shells are made must also be made larger, as 
all the loops throughout must be of the same size. 




Fig. 43. Point de Venise. 



18 




Fig. 44. Point de Venise. 



In widening, very great care must be taken not to 
make the loops larger, 
or stint the number of 
shells, and so give the 
latter part of the work 
a straggly, loose appear- 
ance, very different from 
the first part. 

Another variation of 
Point de V e n i s e is 
shown in Fig. 44. In this the row of single net 
stitches is omitted, and a shell is worked upon 
every loop of each row. This causes the shells of 
the first and third rows to slant toward the left 
while the shells of the second and fourth rows 
slant toward the right. Worked in this way, the 
result is a heavy, sumptuous stitch, and is very 
beautiful. Perhaps the fact that it is so much 
more slowly worked is the reason we find it less 
often in use than the more favored variety with 
the row of net stitches. 

Still another Point de 
Venise stitch, Pig. 45, is 
varied as well as made 
more open, and worked 
in less time by omitting 
every other shell. The 
alternating rows of Brus- 
sels net stitches are made 
as in Fig. 43. In the 
second row a loop is made, and a shell worked 
upon it. A second loop has the shell omitted. 
On the third loop a shell is worked. Alternating 
in this way the row is finished. Great care must 
be used in putting in the net stitches of the third 
row to avoid skipping a stitch. A stitch must be 
placed close upon each side of every shell of the 
row above. This ensures a buttonhole stitch upon 
each side of the single stitches between the 
shells. When finished the pattern shows rows of 
parallel diagonal lines of shells across the space 
filled. The beauty of this stitch depends upon its 
perfect regularity. 

A pleasing arrangement of Point de Venise 
stitches is made by working one net stitch beneath 
which three or four side stitches are placed. This 
stitch may be worked in two ways. The loops 
between the single net stitches are made sufficiently 
loose to admit of the placing of the three or four 
siae stitches, which fill the loop until it is almost 
Straight. The work is begun at the upper left 




Fig. 45. Point de Venise. 




Pig. 46. Point de Venisk. 



corner, and when 
the opposite up- 
per right corner 
is reached the 
thread is fas- 
tened to the 
braid and carried 
down its edge for 
a space equal to 
the width of the 
stitches of the 
first row. The second row is like the first, except 
that it proceeds from right to left. This method 
causes the side stitches of every alternate row to 
point to the left, and the intervening rows to point 
to the right. When it is desired to have all the 
side stitches lie in the same direction, the thread, 
at the completion of the first row, is carried to the 
left side by thrusting the needle once through 
each loop of the first row, and in this way carrying 
it across the space. This gives a corded effect to 
the loops. The thread is carried down the side of 
the braid, and the working of the second row is 
begun. 

These Point de Venise stitches may be distin- 
guished from each other by calling them accord- 
ing to the number of stitches used. The two-one 
Point de Venise stitch consists of two net stitches 
and one side stitch. The two-two stitch is com- 
posed of two net stitches and two side stitches. 
The three-one is made of three net stitches and 
one side stitch, while one net stitch and three 
side stitches is called the one-three Point de 
Venise. 

Petit Point de Venise. 

This stitch may be worked openly or as com- 
pactly as desired. The first method gives an 
open lacy effect, while the second shows a 
stitch almost solid in appearance, so little space 
is there between the stitches. Beginning at the 
upper left corner, a 
loose buttonhole stitch 
is first made, and a 
second buttonhole 
stitch is worked side- 
ways over or around 
the first one. This is 
drawn tightly, and so 
secures the first stitch FlG - 47 ' PETIT PolNT DE Venise - 
in place. A second loose buttonhole stitch is 




19 



worked and tied by a " side " stitch, and this is 
continued to the end of the row. The thread 
is then carried down the braid for a distance equal 
to the width of the stitch. The second row is 
then worked in the same way as the first. This 
is continued until the space is finished. 

A pretty Point de Venise stitch is formed by a 

union of the double 
net stitch, or Point 
de Sorrento, and 
the side stitch. 
The thread is fas- 
tened at the upper 
left corner of the 

Fig. 48. Point de VeniseT* gpace to be filledj 

and two net stitches set close together along the 

edge of the upper 

braid. These are 

bound together by 

a third buttonhole 

stitch set sideways 

across the base of 

the two net stitches. 

To accomplish this, 

after the second net 

stitch is in place, 





Fig. 49. Point de Venise. 




Fig. 50. Point de Venise. 



the needle is thrust in the loop at the left of the 

two stitches, and 
drawn up closely 
in the buttonhole 
knot. Two more 
net stitches are 
then made in the 
edge of the braid 
at a distance from 
the first pair equal 
to the space they 
occupy, and with 
the connecting loop drawn sufficiently tight to 
make the rows of stitches lie in straight, parallel 
lines. The side stitch is then placed in position 
beneath them, and the work continued to the end 
of the row. The second row is like the first, except 
that in working from right to left the direction of 
the stitches is reversed. 

Variations of this stitch are formed by placing 
two side stitches beneath to guard the two net 
stitches, or by working three net stitches with one 
side stitch. Other variations of these useful 
stitches will suggest themselves to the lace 
maker. 



Point d'Espagne — Spanish Point Stitches. 

The Spanish point stitches form a group of very 
distinctive difference from the other lace stitches. 
Instead of the scalloped or looped appearance of 
the foregoing stitches, they produce a rectangular 
effect of horizontal parallel lines connected at right 
angles by the vertical twisted stitches. Their 
appearance is very open and effective, and, besides 
making very good filling-in stitches for the design 
of the pattern, they give excellent results when 
used to fill in backgrounds. As in all the filling 
stitches, the lines must be perfectly even and reg- 
ular to obtain a satisfactory effect. 

Open Spanish Point. 

The long effect of the stitch is the result of the 
extra twist given the thread by the method of 
forming the stitch. The thread is fastened at the 
upper left corner of the space and carried down 
the edge of the left-hand braid for the required 
distance, or the width of the stitch, which varies 
in length according to the degree of fineness or 
coarseness of the 
working thread. 
The thumb of the 
left hand is placed 
upon the thread as 
near the braid as is 
conveniently prac- 
tical. The thread 

is then carried to Fig. 51. Open Spanish Point. 

the right of the thumb, and again placed under it 
in such a way that the thumb holds down both 
sides of the loop which is beneath it. The needle 
is then thrust at the proper place through the 
upper braid, over the nearer thread of the loop, 
and under the farther thread. The thumb is kept 
on the loop until the working thread has been 
drawn nearly to the completion of the stitch. 
This is repeated to the end of the row, when the 
work is reversed and the second row of stitches 
put in. This is accomplished by forming the 
loop on the left side of the thumb, proceeding 
as before. This method of working the stitch is 
clearly illustrated in Fig. 51. 

Spanish Point. 

The first row of this stitch is worked just as is 
the first row of the preceding one. At the com- 
pletion of the row the working thread is car- 




20 



=ttj =c 



Fig. 52. Spanish Point. 



ried back to the 
left side of the 
space by passing 
the needle once 
through each loop 
of the first row 
and drawing the 
thread up tight. 
Only one stitch 
can successfully be 
taken up by the needle at a time, as putting the 
needle through several loops and then drawing 
the thread is very apt to prdl the stitches out 
of place, and so make them slant instead of 
maintaining the desired vertical position. 

When the working thread has reached the left 
side of the space, it is carried down the edge of 
the braid and the second row of loop stitches 
worked. 

Spanish Point. 

A very pretty variation of this stitch is formed 
by placing the stitches in groups. See Fig. 53. 

Three Spanish point stitches are worked at 
regular, somewhat close intervals, as in the 
former stitch. Space enough for two stitches 
is omitted, and the first stitch of the next group 
of three stitches is placed just where the sixth 
stitch would have been worked had not the 
stitches belonging to the fourth and fifth spaces 
been omitted. 

These groups of 
three stitches are 
continued across 
the space and the 
working thread 
entered into the 
luaid. The needle 
is then thrust once 
through each of the 
two smaller loops 
and twice through 
the longer loop that separates the' groups of 
stitches. When the thread has been brought 
clear across the space, it is entered into the 
braid and carried by overcasting stitches the 
necessary distance along the edge of the braid. 

The second row of the groups of stitches is then 
begun. The first stitch of the first group is placed 
in the loop between the first and second stitches of 
the row above. The second stitch is placed in the 















PSsELnfifi 







































Fig. 53. Spanish Poiht. 



other or following loop, and the third or last stitch 
of the group is placed on the long loop just beyond 
the third stitch of the row above. This is contin- 
ued across the space. The thread is carried back 
to the left side of the space as before by thrusting 
it through the loops of the last row. 

Each succeeding row is begun by placing the 
first stitch to the right of the first stitch of the 
preceding row, and the result is a series of 
diagonal lines of stitches in groups of three, 
extending from the upper left corner of the 
space toward the lower right corner. 

Another combination consists of a group of six 
Spanish point stitches set close together, followed 
by a space wide enough for four stitches. See 
Fig. 54. Another group of six stitches is worked 
and followed by another space the size of the 

former one. 
This is con- 
tinued until 
the braid at 
the opposite 
side is 

reached. The 
thread is then 
carried in the 
regular way 
back to the left side of the space. A stitch is 
worked in the loop following the second stitch of 
the first group of six stitches of the row above. 
This is followed by a stitch in each of the two 
following loops, and results in a trio of stitches 
directly under the middle of the group of six 
stitches above. 

Three other stitches are worked in the open 
space or long loop, and these are followed by 
another trio of stitches worked under the middle 
of the second group of six stitches above. This is 
continued to the end of the space. The third row 
is like the first and the fourth is like the second. 

Another arrangement of the Spanish stitches 
is shown in Fig. 55. The first row consists of 
stitches placed closely together at regular inter- 
vals across the space. At the completion of each 
row the working thread is overcast back to the left 
side of the space. The second row consists of 
four stitches placed in each of the first four loops 
between the stitches of the preceding row. One 
loop is omitted and another group of four stitches 
worked. This is continued across the space. The 
third row consists of groups of three stitches 



Fig. 54. Spanish Point. 



21 




Fig. 55. Spanish Point. 



placed in the loops between the groups of four 
stitches of the second row. The fourth row con- 
sists of groups of 
two stitches placed 
between the 
groups of three of 
the preceding row, 
and the fifth row 
consists of one 
stitch between the 
two of the fourth 
row and forms the 
point of the tri- 
angle. The sixth row is a repetition of the first, 
and a row of new points is begun. A long, narrow 
diamond design may be made by reversing the 
order of the stitches at the beginning of the second 
row of points. To accomplish this a row of two 
stitches would be worked on the row following 
the fifth row of single stitches. This would be 
increased to three stitches in the next row, and so 
continued until the ninth row would be reached 
and worked like the first. 

Spanish Point Insertion. 

Long, narrow spaces may be filled with Spanish 
point stitches. Row after row of these stitches 
are worked along the length of the space, and may 
be so continued until the opposite edge of the 

space is reached, 
when the returning 
thread is used to at- 
tach the last row of 
stitches to the adj oin- 
ing braid. In the 
case of spaces of 
irregular width, 
when only one row 
of stitches remains 
to be worked at the 
narrow parts of the 
space, the pattern is turned around, and the last 
row worked from the edge of the second braid, 
and each stitch, as the work proceeds, is attached 
by overcasting stitches to the already finished 
rows. Where the space is wider, longer stitches 
are formed by increasing the number of the twist- 
ings of the working thread around the stitch, as 
shown in the illustration. A little practice will 
enable the worker to adapt this stitch to spaces of 
different shapes. 




Fig. 56. Spanish Point Insertion. 



Shell Insertion. 

One of the most beautiful of all the insertions is 
composed of Spanish point stitches. The thread 
is fastened at the upper left corner of the space, 
or, in the case of an oval-shaped space, in the 
upper point. It is then carried by overcasting 
stitches down the left edge of the braid, a distance 
equal to the length of the Spanish point stitches. 
Into the middle of the braid, at the end of the 
space, four Spanish point stitches are w r orked, 
entering the same point in 
the braid. The thread is 
then attached to the edge 
of the braid at the right side 
of the space exactly the 
same distance from the cor- 
ner as it is on the left side. 
The working thread is over- 
cast once (or twice if the 
space be wide) over the 
straight thread connected 
with the braid at the right 
side and once over each 
small loop between the 
Spanish point stitches, and, 
finally, once or twice over 
the thread connected with 
the braid at the left side. 
It is then carried down the side of the braid the 
same distance as before, and four Spanish point 
stitches are placed between the second and third 
stitches of the first row. The thread is again 
fastened to the braid and overcast through the 
stitches to the left side of the space, and the work 
so continued until the space is filled. 

Spanish Net Stitches. 

The various arrangements and groupings of the 
Spanish net stitches form many beautiful and 

practical n e t w or k s . 
Where a very close ef- 
fect is desired, good 
results may be obtained 
by working row after 
row of close Spanish net 
stitches as shown in 
Fig. 58. Beginning at 
the upper left corner 
of the space, a row of 
Spanish net stitches is 
worked, with just space 




Fig. 57. Shell Insertion. 




Fig. 58. Spanish Net. 



22 



enough between them to provide room for the 
stitches of the next row, one of which is placed 
on each tiny loop between the stitches of the pre- 
ceding row. The second row may be worked 
from right to left, or, when a heavier effect is 
desired, the working thread may be carried to 
the left side by overcasting it once through each 
loop. 

Double Spanish Net 

Is the more open result obtained when the stitches 
are arranged in pairs. Two close Spanish net 
stitches are worked ; a space sufficient to accom- 
modate two more stitches is left open, and is 
followed by a second pair of stitches similar to 
the first pair. In other words, the stitches are 
exactly as in close Spanish net, except that every 

other pair of 
stitches is 
omitted. In this 
stitch, to obtain 
good results, it 
is necessary on 
reaching the end 
of each row to 
overcast the 
working thread 
through the loops 
back to the left 
side of the space. 
This maintains 
the parallel effect 
desired. The second row is exactly like the first, 
except that the pairs of stitches are placed upon 
the long bar between the pairs of stitches of the 
preceding row. 

Triple Spanish Net. 

Still another arrangement is called triple Spanish 
net, or treble Point d'Espagne. This arrangement 

is exactly 
like t h e 
d o ub 1 e 
Spanish 
net, except 
that the 
stitches a re 
in groups 
of threes 
instead of 
being in pairs as in the double Spanish stitch. 




Fig. 59. Double Spanish Net. 



I j 


L1L 


i 




i ii 




1 1 | 


1 






















i rfr 






n ii 


U ' 


£■ 










u 


5X53J 


































i ii 
























1 


^ i i"/i" 


E 


i ii it i 


1 


'WAV 





j H n ' r r r _ 



Fig. 61. Spanish Net. 



Fig. 60. Triple Spanish Net. 



Grouped Spanish Net. 

This illustration shows an arrangement of Span- 
ish net stitches in groups of six. Six close Spanish 
net stitches are worked from left to right across 
the space, with exactly the same space between 
the groups as they themselves occupy, so that the 
groups of six stitches of the next row, which will 
be worked on the bars between the spaces of the 
first row, will exactly fill them, with no room to 
spare, and no crowding. Great care must be taken 
to keep the long loops or bars between the groups 
drawn sufficiently tight to keep the lower edge of 

tlie stitches 
exactly par- 
allel with the 
upper edge 
all along the 
length of the 
row. 

When the 
first row is 
completed the 
thread is car- 
ried to the left 
side of the 
space by overcasting it once through each little 
loop between the stitches of each group, and several 
times, carefully and smoothly, over the long loop 
or bar between the groups. The second row of 
stitches is then worked in groups of six over the 
long bars of the preceding row, and the thread 
again brought, by overcasting, to the left side. 
The third and succeeding rows are then worked 
until the space is filled. When carefully done, 
the alternating filled and open spaces appear as 
little oblongs regularly placed. This stitch may 
be worked from side to side without overcasting 
the thread back to the left side after each row, but 
great care must be taken to get the loops or bars 
even and of equal length. 

Somewhat more elaborate is the network shown 
in Fig. 62. The thread is fastened as usual at the 
upper left corner of the space. Two close Spanish 
net stitches are worked. A space just equal to 
that required for five close Spanish net stitches is 
left without stitches ; then two more close Spanish 
net stitches are worked. This is continued to the 
end of the row. The working thread is then 
overcast once through each of the small loops 
between the pairs of Spanish net stitches, and 
several times over the long loop or bar. The 



23 




Fig. 02. Spanish Net. 



second row consists of groups of five Spanish net 
stitches worked over each long loop or bar. The 

thread is 
again overcast 
to the left 
side, and the 
third row be- 
gun. This is 
like the first 
row, and is 
composed of 
pairs of Span- 
ish net stitches 
worked over 
the loops be- 
tween the 
groups of five stitches of the second row. After 
•each row the thread is overcast to the left side of 
the space, unless it is preferred to work alternately 
from left to right, and right to left. When finished, 
this network presents a broken check appearance, 
■of oblongs and little squares, that is very effective. 
In the Spanish Net stitch illustrated in Fig. 
63 the thread is fastened in the corner and then 
■carried by overcasting stitches along the edge of 
the braid about a quarter of an inch below. A net 
stitch is then placed in the upper braid about one- 
eighth of an inch from the comer. This is followed 

by two other net 
stitches set close 
together. A sec- 
ond group of three 
stitches is then 
worked at a dis- 
t a n c e from the 
first group equal 
to their own 
width. Between 
these groups of 
net stitches the 
thread is allowed 
to fall in a long loop that reaches a very little 
below the level of the thread at its starting-point. 
These loose loops and groups of three net stitches 
are continued across the width of the space. 
The thread is then carried to the same distance 
from the corner as it is at the opposite side. 

In every long loop of the first row three close 
buttonhole stitches are worked, and the intervening 
thread drawn quite tight in order to form a straight 
line across the space. The thread is then carried 




Fig. 63. Spanish Net Stitch. 



= ■PrA aifeiij a gi— 1^^ 



Fig. 64. Spanish Net Stitch. 



along the edge of the braid for the same distance 
as before, and three buttonhole stitches are worked 
beneath the three of the former row, leaving the 
long loop between each group. These three 
stitches are not placed in the loops between the 

former groups of 
stitches, but the 
needle is thrust 
between the two 
threads of each 
buttonhole stitch. 
This brings the 
n e w r o w o f 
stitches exactly 
beneath the other 
three above. 

A variation of this stitch is shown in Fig. 64, and 
is obtained by working only two buttonhole stitches 
in each group of this row, and putting them on the 
loops between the buttonhole stitches of the former 
row. 

Venetian or Point de Sorrento Stitch. 

Point de Sorrento. — Line Stitch. — The Vene- 
tian stitches form one of the prettiest and most 
effective groups of stitches used. They are always 
less transparent than similar stitches without the 
straight line. When worked openly they present a 
cobwebby, misty effect that is decidedly beautiful. 
The thread is fastened at the left-hand corner 

of the space to be 
filled, and a row 
of single net 
stitches is worked 
across the space 
at regular dis- 
tances from each 
other, and f a r 
enough apart to 
leave medium-sized loops between, as is shown in 
the illustration. When the end of the row is 
reached, the thread is carried down the side of the 
braid, until it is on a line with the lower edge of 
the loops. It is then carried across the space in a 
straight line, and passed through the edge of the 
braid at the left side. Care must be taken to have 
the thread tight enough to admit of no sagging, 
but not tight enough to draw the braid one particle 
from its place, and each successive line must be 
exactly parallel with its predecessors. 

The second row of loops is then worked, and in 




Fig. 65. Line Stitch. 



24 



every stitch the needle is thrust through the loop 
above and back of the parallel thread, so that it is 
always held with the loop in the twist of the net 
stitch, and forms a part of the body of the lace. 

A very novel effect is produced by missing some 
of the loops of the network, and in the next row 
working the same number of stitches in the loops 
so formed. The result is a series of open spaces 
in the close net work that is very odd. These 
open spaces may be placed at regular intervals over 
the entire network, or may be so spaced as to 
form a design. In Fig. 66 the first row is a series 
of close buttonhole stitches. The thread is then 
carried back to the opposite side, and a second row 
of buttonhole stitches over it is begun. Four of 
these stitches are placed, and the next four omitted. 
The following six 




Fig. 66. Venetian Stitch. 



are worked, and 
the next four 
omitted. The next 
four are w o r k e d. 
The next row is 
worked without 
any omissions. 
When the open 
spaces are reached, 
the same number of stitches are worked in each as 
were omitted in the former row. In the following 
row the open space is left just between and below 
the two spaces of the upper row. Another com- 
plete row follows. The sixth row is a repetition 
of the second row. 

Double Venetian or Cobweb Stitch. 

One of the most beautiful and popular of all the 
lace stitches is the double Venetian. This is made 
in the same way 
as the single Ve- 
netian, except 
that, instead of 
a single button- 
hole s t i t c h in 
each loop, two 
are used. The 
two stitches aid 
each other in 

keeping the thread firmly in place, and make a 
very regular, substantial filling, that has a very 
fine lace-like appearance. The loop between the 
stitches is left loose and held in place with a pin 
as shown in the illustration. 




Fig. 67. Cobweb Stitch. 



This stitch may also be made with three button- 
hole stitches in each loop, as shown in Fig. 68. 
Worked in 
this way the 
effect is de- 
cidedly close 
and solid, un- 
less the loops 
are made suf- 
ficiently large 
to allow ample 
space for the 
three stitches. 



=lffi 


ESi 


Ht 


h 


TfW 


II ii n ii ii ii 
MTU II II lllfrr 


EH = 




l|j_ 




L 




II IIIIIIIIIIIHI 










-1 - 




























= 1 ~ 







Fig. 68. Venetian Stitch. 



Darned Figures on Venetian Background. 

After a space has been filled with the plain, 
close Venetian stitch, it may be embellished in a 
variety of ways, and so made very effective and 
rich in appearance. With a fine linen floss, or 
other loosely twisted thread, pretty tufts or spots 
may be darned over two rows of the Venetian 
background. When worked at regular intervals, 
they add greatly to the richness of the work. 
Stars and trefoils in bullion stitch, buttonholed 
rings, and other fancy stitches may also be used. 

When a very solid, cloth-like effect is desired, 
the Venetian stitch is worked with the net stitches 
very close together. Only sufficient room is left 
for the placing of 
the net stitch of 
the succeeding 
row. The straight 
tli read aids also 
in producing an 
almost solid effect. 
This compact 
method of work- 
ing this stitch is 
seen most frequently in Venetian lace, where it is 
used as a filling for leaves, scrolls, and various 
parts of the design to be thrown out most effect- 
ively by the open background of Raleigh bars, or 
the even regular net ground. 

Spider or Wheel Stitch. 

This is a very rich and beautiful filling for large 
spaces. Beginning at the upper left corner, a diag- 
onal line is laid across the space at an angle of 
forty-five degrees. The thread is then returned, 
but without twisting, to the first end of the diago- 
nal line, so that the two threads form a double line 



iraraB 



Fig. 69. Venetian Stitch, 



25 




Fig. 70. Spider or Wheel Stitch. 



lying close together but not crossing. At the se- 
lected distance a second line parallel with the first 
is laid across the space, and the thread as before 
returned to its beginning. This is repeated until 
the space is filled with rows of double parallel 
lines at equal distances apart. 

Beginning near the upper right corner, a diago- 
nal line is laid across the first lines at an angle of 
forty-five degrees, which makes it at right angles 

with the first se- 
ries. The thread, 
on its return to 
the starting place, 
is passed three or 
four times around 
the threads of the 
i n t e r s e c t i o ns, 
which are not tied. 
This working 
th read must al- 
ways pass under 
the double threads 
of the completed 
series of parallel lines and over the single lines. 
When the wheel is sufficiently large, the thread is 
passed to the next intersection (which in case of 
the first row is the braid). A second thread is 
thrown across the space parallel with the first, and 
upon its return wheels are made at each intersec- 
tion. This is continued until the space is filled. 

Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Point). 

A very pretty arrangement of Brussels point 
stitches is shown in Fig. 71. A row of net stitches 

is worked in pairs 
across the space. 
The two stitches are 
placed nearly but 
not quite close to- 
gether. A space 
slightly greater than 
that occupied by 
these pairs of 
stitches is left be- 
tween each group. 
The second row consists of a single net stitch 
placed between the pairs of net stitches forming the 
groups of the first row. The third row is formed 
by placing two net stitches in every loop formed 
by the distance between the single net stitches of the 
second row. The fourth row is like the second. 




Fig. 71. Point de Bruxelles. 






Fig. 72. Point de Bruxelles. 



Point de Bruxelles. 

Another variation of Brussels point is made by 
arranging the stitches in points or triangles. In 
Fig. 72, the first row consists of Brussels point 
stitches in an even, regular row just far enough 
apart from each other to easily accommodate the 
stitches of the next row. In the second row two 
stitches (or one loop) are omitted, and one net stitch 
worked in each of the next two loops. Two more 
stitches are omitted and followed by two net 

stitches, one 
placed in each 
of the two loops 
following. This 
arrangement of 
two stitches and 
an omitted loop 
is continued to 
the end of the 
row. 

In the third 
row one net stitch 
is placed between each group of two net stitches 
of the second row. This row should be worked 
just loose enough to allow the long loops between 
the single net stitches to fall in very slightly 
curved lines. The fourth row is worked by plac- 
ing three net stitches on each of the long loops of 
the fourth row. This is the first row of the second 
series of triangles, and is followed by a row of net 
stitches in pairs placed in the same way as in the 
second row, that is, two net stitches, one in each 
loop, and then the omission of one loop, followed by 
two more net stitches. The next row is the row 
of single net stitches that form the points of the 
triangle. 

Larger triangles (see Fig. 73) are worked in the 
same way, except that the number of stitches in 
the triangles is increased, and consequently more 

rows are re- 
quired to com- 
plete the fig- 
ures. 

The first 
row is the 
same continu- 
ous r o w of 
single net 
stitches as is 
shown in the 
smaller tri- 






Fig. 73. Point de Bruxelles. 



26 



angles. In the second row four stitches are worked 
and one loop omitted. In the third row three 
stitches are placed in the three loops of the pre- 
ceding row, and so the work is continued till the 
points of the triangles are formed. 

In this stitch, the loops being longer, they must 
be kept tight or straight enough to prevent the 
work from becoming too full for the space it occu- 
pies, and so the group of five stitches that begin 
each series or row of triangles may just fill the 
long loop prepared for them between the single 
stitches of the last row. 

Many very pleasing results may be obtained by 
the arranging and grouping in various ways of 
Brussels net stitches. In Fig. 74 the first row con- 
sists of a series of single net stitches set at regular 
distances apart. The second row is the same 
until the middle loop is reached, when three net 
stitches instead of one are worked. The single 

net stitches 
are then con- 
tinued to the 
end of the 
row. In the 
third row a 
group of 
three net 
s t i t c h es is 
placed in the 
first whole 
loop at the 
right of the 
group of three in the second row. A single net 
stitch is placed in the half loop at either side ad- 
joining the group of three in the second row. In 
the next whole loop following, a second group of 
three stitches is worked. The fourth row is like 
the first. This brings the three net stitches ex- 
actly below those of the second row, and completes 
the quadrilateral or diamond-shaped pattern of 
the design. 

In the fifth row two figures are to be begun, so 
the first group of three stitches is placed in the 
third whole loop preceding the close stitches of 
the row before, and another group of three is 
placed in the third whole loop following the close 
stitches of the previous row. These two groups 
of close stitches are the upper ends of the two 
quadrilateral figures to be worked. In the next 
row the close net stitches are, as in the third row, 
placed in the first whole loop at the right and at 



H II ' 


JJ 


□ 






L|0 


II 




II 


lUL 




























Tn 


3 


i 




Mo 1 


l 




n 


r nP 
















































FaBl 



Fir.. 74. POINT DE Bruxelles. 



the left of the group in the row above. The plac- 
ing of the groups in the seventh row just beneath 
those of the fifth row completes this group of 
quadrilaterals. 

Point de Bruxelles, "Pea" Stitch. 

One of the prettiest of all arrangements of the 
Brussels net stitches is the one commonly known 
as the pea stitch, because of the open pea-shaped 
spaces formed by the method of the grouping of 
the stitches. This stitch is excellent for the filling 
in with networks of large spaces, and belongs to 
the design stitches, and not to the background 
stitches. 

A row of Brussels net stitches is worked across 
the upper edge of the space to be filled. They 
should be placed regularly at even distances apart, 
and with room enough between them to place the 
stitches of the next row. In the second row a 
single net stitch is placed in the last loop of the 
first row. Two loops, which include three but- 
tonhole stitches, are 
missed, and then 
one net stitch is 
worked in each of 
the next two loops. 
Two more loops are 
missed, and then 
two more net 
stitches are placed 
in the next two 
loops, and so the 
work is continued 
until the end of the row is reached. The third 
row is the row requiring care lest a mistake be 
made. Three net stitches are worked on the long 
loop of the previous row, and a single net stitch is 
placed between the two stitches between the long 
loops. The fourth row is like the second, and the 
fifth row is like the third. The long loop must be 
sufficiently loose to allow the curved appearance 
necessary to make the large openings nearly round. 

Greek Net Stitch. 

Greek net stitch is excellent for filling in large 
spaces, and is often used instead of spiders and 
twisted bars for the filling in of the background of 
lace patterns. As the beauty of this stitch lies in 
the perfection with which it is made, absolute 
regularity in the length and spacing of the stitches 
is necessary. The thread is fastened at the upper 




Point de Bruxelles, 
" Pea " Stitch. 



27 




left corner of the space to be filled and carried 

down the side 

of the braid a 

distance nearly 

twice the length 

of a Spanish net 

stitch. At the 

same distance 

from the right 

of the corner, 

the needle is 

thrust into the 

edge, of the Fig. 76. Greek Net Stitch. 

braid, and a single Spanish net stitch worked. 
The thread is left loose or slack enough to fall 
in a rather long or decided loop equal in length 
to two of the Spanish net stitches. These single 
stitches are worked at regular distances across the 
entire length of the space, and are lifted up or 
shortened by a thrust of the needle in order to 
lengthen the loops and keep the net stitches the 
length of one side of the hexagon under construc- 
tion. Each loop forms two sides of the hexagon. 
When the first row is completed, the thread is 
carried through the braid by a single stitch, and 
is overcast twice over each loop, evenly, and with- 
out drawing the loop out of its proper position, 
until the opposite side of the space is reached. 
The thread is then overcast along the edge of the 
braid the required distance, and a second row of 
single Spanish net stitches, like the first row, is 
made. The fourth row, like the second, consists 
of two overcasting stitches in each loop of the 
previous row. 

Point Turque — Turkish Point. 

The distinctive feature of Turkish point is the 
way in which the threads are knotted. When a 
diamond-shaped mesh is desired, the straight 
thread crossing the space may be omitted. 
When there is danger of not getting the loops 
exactly the same length, it is wise to thrust a pin 
through the pattern at the proper place, and pass 
the thread to form the loop around it. The expe- 
rienced worker will doubtless find this use of the 
pin unnecessary. The thread is fastened in the 
upper left corner, and is carried down the edge of 
the braid a distance from the upper braid equal 
to the required length of the loops. The first 
stitch in the upper braid is placed a distance 
from the corner just half the width of the re- 







u 


ii ii ii i 




J 




I III 












fr (tWW r i 


















n 










un 






























'fX' V-tf 














• 1 
















nrti 






liiu 







Fig. 77. Point Turque. 



quired diamond. As the triangles formed by 
each row of loops should be equilateral, each fol- 
lowing stitch should be a distance from the pre- 
ceding one equal to the length of one-half, or one 
side of the loop. To make the knot used in this 
stitch, the thread is laid in a circular loop just 
below the braid at the point of the proposed stitch. 
This loop is formed by passing the thread in a 
curve toward the right, extending close to the 
upper braid, and passing around toward the left 
and over the beginning of the loop. The needle is 
then thrust through the braid, under the upper 
curve of the loop, 
over the lower 
curve, and drawn 
up into a tight 
knot. This 
stitch, repeated 
at regular inter- 
vals between 
loops of exactly 
the same length, 
forms the first 
row. The thread 
is then attached 
to the braid at the right side, and carried down 
its edge to a point exactly in line with the 
middle of the loops. It is then carried across the 
space in a line parallel to the upper braid and 
attached to it. The next row is exactly like the 
first, the straight thread taking the place of the 
upper braid, and the needle at each stitch being 
passed under the loop above, under the straight 
thread, under the upper curve of the laid loop, 
over the lower curve of the loop, and drawn up 
into a tight knot. 

Turkish Point. 

Another form of Turkish point is usually made 
without the straight parallel lines thrown across 

the space. 
They may be 
made, if de- 
sired. The 
thread in this 
illustration is 
fastened i n 
the upper 
right corner 
of the space. 
A short dis- 

Fig. 78. Point Turque. tance from 






2S 



the corner a plain buttonhole stitch is worked in the 
upper braid. Close to this a Turkish point stitch 
is worked. At the required distance from this pair 
of stitches a second pair is placed, with the loop 
between the two pairs long or slack. This is re- 
peated to the end of the row. The thread is then 
carried down the side of the space, and the second 
row begun. This is like the first except that, being 
begun at the left side, the plain buttonhole stitch 
is each time at the left of the Turkish point stitch. 
This is continued until the second and each suc- 
ceeding row is completed. 

Point de Filet. Net Groundwork Stitch. 

Point de Filet is an easy, speedy, and, at the 
same time, very beautiful stitch used for back- 
ground or groundwork, instead of Brussels net. 
It is really an imitation of netting. It is worked 
diagonally across the space to be filled. The 
thread is fastened at the upper left corner of the 
space, and brought down the edge of the braid a 
distance equal to one side of the desired squares 
of the network. It is then carried across the left 

corner of the 
space, and 
fastened t o 
the upper 
braid at a 
point equally 
distant from 
the corner. 
The loop 
must be just 
twice the 
length of the 
proposed 
square, s o 
that when held in place by the knots of the next 
row it will form two sides of the corner square. 
The thread is then carried along the edge of the 
upper braid the same distance as before, and is 
fastened into the corner loop by means of a Turk- 
ish net stitch. The thread is then attached to the 
braid at the left the same distance as before from 
the adjoining fastening. These rows of diagonal 
loops, secured by knots of Turkish net stitch, are 
continued until the space is filled. The beauty of 
this stitch lies in its perfect accuracy. The verti- 
cal lines must be parallel and the horizontal lines 
must be parallel. This necessitates the making of 
all the loops of exactly the same length. To facil- 





























f.ii N ottt 
















BH 








n — ft 1 ' 









Fir.. 79. Point de Filet. 




Fig. 80. Point de Filet. 



itate this, pins may be stuck into the pattern at 
the right places, and the thread passed under them 
when the loops are being made. The work may be 
made still easier, if, before the stitch is begun, the 
space to be filled is checked off on the pattern 
with pen or pencil. Upon the finished network 
the various stitches used in netting, and many 
beautiful lace stitches, may be worked. 

Point de Filet. 

This stitch shows another method of tying the 
knot in point de filet. The thread is secured to 
the loops above it by a single Brussels net or 

buttonhole stitch. 

igKViHHHrw <* u Mn m jAifwa^gj >pi ie ne edle is then 

passed under this 
buttonhole stitch or 
knot, over the work- 
ing thread, under 
it, and drawn up 
tightly. This 

method very closely 
simulates netting 
and makes a good 
background for other 
stitches. 
Bruges Stitch. 

The Bruges lace stitch is well adapted for the 
filling of large spaces, and may be used with or 
without the rosettes that give it its elaborate 
appearance. 

Fasten the thread at the front left corner of the 
space, and overcast it along the edge of the nearer 
braid for the distance of one-fourth of an inch. 
Carry the thread across the space to the back or 
farther braid, and fasten it with a buttonhole stitch 

just one-fourth of 
an inch from the 
back left corner. 
Overcast the 
thread along the 
edge of the braid 
for a distance of' 
one - sixteenth of 
an inch. About 
three-sixteenths of 
an inch from the back braid work a single button- 
hole stitch over the long thread thrown across the 
space. Over the length of this buttonhole stitch 
place two other buttonhole stitches close together 
and extending toward the front end of the space. 




Fir,. Rl. Bruges Stitch. 



29 



This is exactly as the " shells " in Point de Venise 
are made, only two instead of four stitches are 
used. This forms the " knots " that hold the 
parallel threads in place. One-half inch nearer 
the front braid work another buttonhole stitch over 
the long thread and fill its length as before with 
two buttonhole stitches. Repeat this at intervals 
of half an inch until the nearer or front braid is 
reached. Overcast the working thread along the 
edge of the braid for half an inch, and carry it 
across the space in a line parallel with the first 
thread. Fasten it with a single buttonhole stitch 
to the edge of the braid. If the thread is kept 
parallel, this point of attachment will be exactly 
half an inch from the first thread. Again carry 
the thread one-sixteenth of an inch to the right of 
the thread just fastened. At spaces exactly in line, 
from right to left, with the knots of the first row, 
make a new series of knots exactly one-half inch 
apart. Continue this until the entire space is filled 
with parallel lines from front to back of the space 
and at even distances apart, and whose knots form 
parallel rows from right to left across the space. 
The work is now ready for the second series of 
parallel lines, which must intersect the first series 
exactly half way between the knots of the first 
rows. Turn the work around so that the finished 
lines extend from right to left instead of from 
front to back. This places the working of the 
second lines in the same position for working as 
were the first lines. Carry the working thread 
by overcasting stitches along the edge of the braids 
until a thread carried across the space wdl inter- 
sect the parallel lines almost half-way between the 
first two rows of knots. Fasten this thread with a 
buttonhole stitch and overcast it one-sixteenth of 
an inch along the edge of the braid. Work a but- 
tonhole stitch over this long thread just as far 
from the intersection of the two lines as are the 
knots of the first lines. Over this buttonhole stitch 
work the two close buttonhole stitches that form 
the knot. Work another buttonhole stitch over the 
long thread exactly at the point of intersection. 
Work the two stitches that are to form the knot 
over both the buttonhole stitch and the threads of 
the finished line./ Draw these stitches tight. This 
knot holds the two sets of lines together. At the 
proper place on the long thread (which is the same 
distance from the intersection as the other three 
knots surrounding it, and is also half-way between 
the first and second parallel lines already finished ) 



work another knot. Continue in this way until this 
line and the others which are necessary to fill the 
space are completed. This results in the open 
Bruges lace stitch, which is very effective when an 
open network is desired. 

When it is decided to have the rosettes at the 
intersections, they are worked as each intersection 
is reached. The work is exactly as above until 
the knot which ties the intersecting threads has 
been worked (see Fig. 81). Around this knot the 
working thread is woven two or three times, by 
passing it over and under the surrounding threads 
in the manner of making a spider, as shown by the 
position of the needle in Fig. 81. This weaving 
being completed, the work of making the knots 
that form the rosette is begun at the space to 
the left of the long thread. In this right angle 
between the front aud left-hand threads two but- 
tonhole stitches, not too tight, are worked over the 
last threads of the spider. The needle is then 
thrust through the spider from beneath the work 
at the next angle, between the left hand and 
back threads, and two more buttonhole stitches are 
worked. This is repeated in the third and fourth 
angles. The needle is then thrust through the 
spider from beneath near the long thread, and the 
rosette is completed. The knot just between this 
and the next point of intersection is worked, and 
then the knot that ties the next crossing threads 
is made and the next rosette begun. This is con- 
tinued until a rosette adorns each intersection 
throughout the space. A variation of this stitch 
may be obtained by surrounding the centre with 
a spider, but omitting the outer knots. 



Point d'Angleterre. 

This ground network 
spaces. The thread is 




Fig. 82. Point d'Angleterke. 

ing the working thread 



is excellent for large 
fastened at the upper 
left corner, and 
carried along the 
upper braid the 
required distances 
for one check or 
square of the net- 
work. It is then 
carried across the 
space to the oppo- 
site side and en- 
tered into the 
braid, always keep- 
perfectly parallel to 



30 



the edge of the left braid. The working thread 
is then overcast along the edge of the front braid, 
a distance equal to the distance between the first 
thread and the left braid. It is then carried to 
the upper or back braid and attached, forming 
another parallel line. These threads are contin- 
ued across the space, all equally distant, and all 
parallel. Similar parallel threads are then laid 
across the space from right to left, and form a 
network of little perfect squares. The thread is 
next carried in diagonal lines from the end of 
each alternate parallel thread crossing the squares 
from right to left, and from left to right, and 
completing the network. 

The thread is fastened in the upper left corner 
and carried along the left braid to the first hori- 
zontal parallel threads. This is overcast, and 
when the first vertical parallel thread is reached, 
the needle is passed back of both threads, thus 
securing the back one in the twist. At the first 
meeting of the four lines a half wheel is woven in 
an over and under darning stitch. The thread is 
then overcast in the same way to the next meeting 
of four threads, and a second half spider or wheel 
is worked. This is continued across this and each 
succeeding row until the space is filled. 

Point d'Angleterre Rosette Stitch. 

The thread is fastened at the upper left corner 
and overcast along the edge of the upper braid the 

required distance. 
It is then carried 
across the space 
to the lower or 
front edge of the 
braid and entered 
into it, making 
the thread so 
stretched across 
the space parallel 
with the left 
braid. The work- 
ing thread is then 
overcast along the 
edge of the front braid a distance equal to that 
between the left braid and the first placed thread. 
A second thread parallel to the first is then laid 
across the space, and is followed by other equally 
distant parallel threads until the right side of the 
space is reached. Similar parallel threads are then 
carried across the braid from right to left, over 



II J] 


1 11 11 II II II II II II 






Rll 


Nil 




^n. _ : _ 






j_.ll. - j. — 









Fig. 83. Point d'Angleterre. 



and under, and at right angles to the first series. 
The thread is then fastened to the left braid at the 
middle of the second square from the upper left 
corner. It is carried across the space diagonally 
to the upper right corner of the second upper 
square from the upper left corner, and crosses 
at the meeting of the horizontal and vertical lines. 
It is then carried one square to the right and again 
brought across the space in a line parallel with the 
first diagonal line, These parallel diagonal lines 
are continued across the entire space. The thread 
is then fastened to the right braid at the lower 
corner of the second square from the back right 
corner and carried to the upper left corner of that 
small square, where it makes the seventh ray di- 
verging from that point. These threads are not 
tied together, but the needle is passed over and 
under the seven rays in several circles to form a 
wheel. Then the needle is passed from under that 
side of the wheel having the seventh ray and 
through the last circle of the thread of the wheel 
at the opposite side. This supplies the eighth ray / 
by the fastening of the thread into the braid at 
the upper left corner of the little square thus 
entered. The thread is overcast along the braid 
to the upper right corner of the square to the left, 
crossed diagonally to its lower right corner, and 
a second wheel made. This diagonal line is con- 
tinued across to the right side of the space and 
another wheel made at the next intersection of 
threads. The making of these diagonal lines and 
the wheels at the intersections is continued until 
the network is filled. 

Hour-glasses. 

Figure 84 shows still another arrangement of 
darning over the network described in No. 82. In 

this pattern two 
fans form little 
vertical h o u r- 
glasses. The 
thread is fastened 
to the upper left 
corner, carried 
along the left 
braid, and over- 
cast along the 
first horizontal 
parallel line to 
the first meeting 
of the parallel and diagonal lines of the network. 



I" 



l.v .*rt»»'»*«>M ■■•• 
Fig. 84. Hour-glasses. 



If preferred, these connecting threads may 
be fastened at their point of meeting by a single but- 
tonhole stitch. The three upper threads are then 
covered with a woven fan and the thread carried 
back through the weaving to the centre. The lower 
three threads are then covered with a second woven 
fan and the thread again carried to the centre. 
The overcasting of the horizontal parallel thread 
is then continued till the location for the next pair 
of fans is reached. This is continued until all the 
double fans are worked. 

Net with Rosette Stitch. 

For thisexceedingly beautiful net work the Pe- 
nelope canvas, used for tapestry work, is imitated. 

The thread is 
fastened at the 
upper right 
•corner of the 
space and over- 
cast along the 



= = U»rl ILssi ^irkxU \ = 



Fig. 85. Net with Rosette Stitch. 



edge of the 
right braid a 
distance equal 
to one side of 
the required 
larger square of 
the network. It is then carried to the left braid 
in a line parallel to the upper braid, attached to 
the braid, and overcast one stitch along its edge. 
It is again carried to the right side in a line 
parallel to the former one, and then overcast along 
the braid the length of the larger square. A 
second pair of parallel threads is passed across 
the space, and this is continued until the entire 
space is covered at regular intervals with these 
pairs of parallel threads. 

The thread is then overcast along the front 
edge of the braid a distance equal to one side of 
the larger squares and woven under the lower and 
over the upper thread of each pair of horizontal 
lines. It is then overcast one stitch along the 
edge of the braid and returned to the lower edge 
by passing under the upj^er and over the lower 
threads. This alternates the weaving. 

Upon this pretty network the rings are made. 
The thread is woven several times around the 
small squares and closely buttonholed. The 
thicker the foundation of circling threads and 
the more raised the buttonholing upon it, the more 
effective will be the result. At the completion of 




Fig. 86. Gkeek Crosses. 



each buttonholed ring the thread is securely fas- 
tened and then cut. This makes each little ring 
independent of the others. 

Greek Crosses. 

The network for this filling stitch of little Greek 
crosses is the same as for the half spiders or wheels. 
When the net- 
work is com- 
pleted, the thread 
is fastened at the 
upper left corner 
and overcast to 
the first horizon- 
tal parallel line. 
This thread is 
overcast to the 
first meeting of 
four threads, se- 
curing the verti- 
cal thread in the overcasting. From the centre 
of this group of four threads, or eight radii, the 
thread is passed over and under the middle and 
left upper threads, forming a little fan. The needle 
is then passed through this fan to the centre, and 
a second fan woven over the middle and lower left 
threads. The third fan covers the middle and 
right front threads, and the fourth covers the re- 
maining two threads. From the outer end of this 
last fan the thread is overcast to the next group 
of threads to be woven. A Greek cross of fans is 
thus made at every intersection of the vertical and 
diagonal lines of the network. 

Point de Reprise. 

The network for Point de Reprise may be pre- 
pared in either of two ways. In the first way 

horizontal par a 1 1 e 1 
lines are carried 
across the space at 
even distances apart. 
The thread is then 
attached to the left 
braid at the left end 
of the upper line, and 
is then entered into 
the upper braid at 
one - half that dis- 
tance from the upper 
left corner. It is 
then passed under the upper parallel line and 
again entered into the upper braid at a distance 



w 


- ' - t^=F4i=^W=^ks^ : - 


ni|§;i§j§i;ijjih 



Fig. 87. Point de Reprise. 



32 



equal to the distance between the upper thread 
and the upper braid. This is continued across the 
space and makes equilateral enclosures. At the 
completion of the first row of enclosed triangles 
the thread is at the right end of the upper line. 
It is then passed under the second line and back to 
the first, passing under both the first thread and 
the thread looped around it at that point. It is 
again passed under the second thread and back to 
the first, forming the equilateral triangles of the 
second row. This is continued row by row until 
the entire space is laid off in a canvas-like network. 
The second method of preparing this network is 
simpler. The parallel horizontal lines are laid as 
before. A series of diagonal parallel lines the same 
distance apart as are the horizontal lines are then 
woven over and under the first lines, across the 
space from the upper and right sides to the left 
and lower sides, crossing the horizontal lines at an 
angle of sixty degrees. A second series of diago- 
nal lines is then woven in the same way and at 
the same angle from the upper and left sides to the 



right and lower sides. This completes the network 
of equilateral triangles. 

These triangles are then covered with cones of 
darning. The thread is attached to the point or 
apex of the triangle to be covered, and the thread 
is passed over and under the foundation threads 
forming the sides of the triangle until the space 
is filled. It is then passed under the threads at 
the corner (which form the apex of another tri- 
angle) and carried down the side of the adjoining 
triangle to its apex. The darning of this triangle 
is accomplished and the work continued until the 
remaining triangles are covered. 

Another method of covering the triangles con- 
sists of the use of buttonhole stitches. The thread 
is attached to the apex of the triangle. Two close 
buttonhole stitches are worked over the right 
foundation thread of the triangle. Then two are 
worked over the left side. In this way the work- 
ing thread passes from one side to the other of 
the triangle after every second buttonhole stitch 
until the triangle is filled. 



Combination and Miscellaneous Stitches. 




Combination Stitches. 

IGURE 88 illustrates several stitches 
applied to different shaped spaces. In 
the leaf-shaped space marked A the 
stitch is worked as folows: 
Fasten the thread at the upper right corner 
of the braid. Make a loop across the space and 
fasten the thread to the left side. Overcast one 
stitch along the edge of the braid and work seven 
buttonhole stitches into the loop. Attach the 
thread to the braid again and overcast two stitches 
along the edge. The third and fourth rows are 
Brussels net stitches. In the third row the stitch 
is taken in the fourth stitch of the group of seven. 
The fifth row is like the second. 

For Fig. 88 B : Fasten the thread to the braid at 
the upper left corner. Carry the thread across 
to right side of the space, leaving the thread loose 
so as to form a loop. Overcast one stitch along 
the edge of the braid and stretch the thread back 
from right to left, keeping it perfectly straight. 
Overcast two stitches down on the braid, and 
work four buttonhole stitches into the loop and 
over the straight thread. The fourth sow is an 
open network where the buttonhole stitches are 

33 



taken between each group of the 
The fifth row is Brussels net 
sixth row is like the third. 



four close 
stitches, 



stitches. 
and the 




Bullion Stitch Used for Background. 



Point de Valenciennes. 

Point de Valenciennes is another form of dia- 
mond stitch (see Fig. 88 C ). The thread is fastened 
at the upper left corner of the space and carried 
down the braid at the left side of the space, a dis- 
tance slightly more than one buttonhole stitch. 
Near, but not close to, the corner a row of eight 
close buttonhole stitches is worked into the upper 
braid. A space equal to three buttonhole stitches 
is omitted and a second row of eight stitches is 
worked. This is continued across the space. 

The thread is again carried down the edge of 
the braid at the right, and a buttonhole stitch is 
placed in the loop between the second and third 
stitches from the right of the first row. This is 
followed by a single close buttonhole stitch in 
each of the next four loops of the group of eight 
stitches. The result is five close buttonhole stitches 
worked in the middle loops of the row above, and 
leaves the two end stitches at either side to ex- 
tend beyond the five below. Into the loop be- 
tween the groups of eight two close buttonhole 
stitches are worked. Five more stitches are placed 
below the next group of eight, and are followed by 
the two stitches on the long loop between the groups. 
This is continued across the 
space. The third row consists of 
two buttonhole stitches placed 
in the two middle loops of each 
group of five stitches of the 
row above, and five stitches 
placed below the groups of two 
stitches. These groups of five 
are formed by placing two close 
buttonhole stitches close to the 
first stitch of the group of two 
above. One stitch is placed 
on the loop between them, and 
two close to the second of the 
two stitches. The fourth row 
consists of groups of eight 
stitches placed below the groups 
of five of the row above. 
The fifth row is like the sec- 
ond, and the sixth is like the 
third. This arrangement of 
stitches forms broad, flattened 
diamonds, and is suitable for 
filling large spaces. Another 
variation of this stitch is shown 
in Fig. 89. 



Combination of Brussels Net. 

The stitches shown in Fig. 88 D may be used for 
wide or narrow spaces by increasing or decreasing 
the length of the long loops, or, in filling large 
spaces, the width may consist of alternate rows 
of the short and the long loops. 

The thread is fastened in the upper left corner, 
and one buttonhole stitch is worked into the upper 
braid one-third of the distance across the space. 
Two close buttonhole stitches are worked in the 
middle of the space. This is followed by a second 
single buttonhole stitch equally distant from the 
first, The thread is then carried to the braid and 
fastened. The second row is worked from right 
to left, and consists of six or more close button- 
hole stitches worked on the long loop, completely 
filling it. Two close buttonhole stitches are 
worked on each of the small loops, and the second 
long loop is covered with six close buttonhole 
stitches. The third row is like the first, and the 
fourth row is like the second. 

The stitch illustrated in Fig. 88 E, like the pre- 
ceding one, is suitable for broad or narrow spaces, 
and is used for wide spaces by repeating the stripes* 
of the pattern. 




COHBlSiATl 



34 



The thread is fastened at the upper left corner 
and carried down the side of the braid one stitch. 
•A short distance from the corner a single stitch is 
worked into the upper braid. Space for two 
stitches is omitted, and a second single stitch is 
worked. These stitches should occupy one-third 
the distance across the space. At the end of the 
second third of the space a single buttonhole stitch 
is worked, making a long loop extending across 
the middle of the space. Space for two stitches 
is then omitted, and a second single buttonhole 
stitch is worked. The thread is then fastened 
into the braid at the right and carried down one 
stitch. A single buttonhole stitch is worked into 
the short loop between the two buttonhole stitches 
above. Six or more stitches are then placed upon 
the long loop, filling it. A single stitch is then 
worked in the left short loop, and the thread 
attached to the braid. The third row is like the 
first, and the fourth is like the second. 

The stitch used in Fig. 88 F is the Petit Point 
de Venise and is described on page 19. 

Fans. 

Woven fans make a very effective filling (see 
Fig. 88). They may be made singly, in pairs, or in 
trios. They may be built like hour-glasses or like 
Greek crosses. They may have few or many 
foundation threads. They may have graduated 
points or they may have a flat end. 

To make a trio of fans as illustrated, the thread 
is fastened at the point of the braid selected for 
the base of the fans. It is then carried to a point 
on the opposite side of the space a distance to 
the left of the 
centre just half 
the width of 
the middle sec- 
tion or division 
of the fan. 
The thread is 
passed through 
the braid and 
overcast back 
to the base of 
the design, al- 
ways over- 
casting from 
the worker. To do this the pattern is so held 
that the base is the farthest point in the space 
from the worker. This way of overcasting ensures 




Combination of Fans with Other 
Stitches. 



a better twist to the threads. When the first thread 
is brought back to the base it is entered into the braid 
at the same point from whence it started. It is again 
carried across the space and entered into the braid 
at a point j ust as far from the centre to the right 
as the first one was to the left. This is overcast 
to the base. The third thread is entered into the 
braid a sufficient distance to the left of the left 
thread already in place and overcast to the base. 
The opposite right thread is then placed in the 
same way. The remaining distance at the left of 
the threads already in place is now filled with four 
similar threads, all overcast, equally distant and 
meeting at the base. The right side of the space 
is filled in the same way. The weaving of the 
fans should be begun with a long thread and at 
the base. The middle fan may be woven first. The 
thread is carried over and under the four threads 
alternately in a weaving or darning stitch and must 
be drawn just tight enough to keep the twisted 
threads in place, to preserve a sharp point at the 
base and an even edge at the sides of the fan. 
When it is desired to begin the pointing, the two 
outer threads are dropped and the weaving is con- 
tinued over and under the two middle threads. 
When the weaving is completed the needle is 
passed from the point to the base of the fan 
through its centre, or between the threads of the 
weaving, so as to be invisible. The thread is now 
in place to begin the weaving of the second fan. 
This and the third one are then woven. 

Woven Rays. 

Woven rays form another showy effect (see 
Fig. 88). The base is naturally the converging part 
of the space, and the outer edge of the group of 
rays is the side of the larger curve. Each ray has 
its own base and these bases are located close 
together, so that each, though a part of the whole 
central effect, is complete in itself. 

The desired positions of the outer ends of the 
rays are selected at equal distances from each other, 
and three threads for each ray, diverging from its 
own base, are put in position and overcast. These 
are covered with the over and under darning or 
weaving stitch throughout their entire length. 
All weaving must begin at the narrowest point in 
the design to be woven. The thread may be at- 
tached to the braid at the completion of each ray 
or may be carried back through the interior of the 
first ray and overcast to the base of the next. 



35 



Diamond Stitch. 

When a rich, showy effect is desired, there is no 
stitch more appropriate for large spaces than the 
diamond stitch. The beauty of this stitch lies in 
its regularity, and in keeping the diamonds suffi- 
ciently close together and in straight rows. The 
thread is fastened in the upper left corner and 
brought down the side of the braid the distance of 
one buttonhole stitch. 
At a short distance from 
the corner, equal to the 
space necessary for two 
stitches, a group of four 
buttonhole stitches is 
worked. These stitches 
must be just far enough 
apart to admit, on the 
second row, one similar 
stitch on each of the 
loops between them. 
These four stitches being 91 1 
completed, a space equal 
to three stitches is 
omitted, and one button- 
hole stitch worked. An- 
other space of equal 92 1 
length is followed by a 
second group of four 
stitches. These groups 

of four Stitches and Fig. 89, Diamond. Figs. 90 and 91, 
, , . . , Point de Sorkento. Fig. 92, 

single stitches are con- bullion insertion, fig. 93, 

tinued across the Space Knotted Russian Stitch. 

to be filled, great care 

being taken to keep the spaces between them of 

equal length. The first row being completed, the 

thread is carried down the edge of the braid one 

stitch. 

In the second row begins the alternate increas- 
ing and decreasing of the diamonds started by the 
first row. One buttonhole stitch is placed on the 
long loop, close to the right side of the single stitch 
of the first row. This is followed by a second 
single stitch placed close to the left side of this 
same single stitch of the first row. Into each of 
the three loops between the four stitches of the 
next group of the first row, a single buttonhole 
stitch is worked. In working the first of these 
three stitches care must be taken to make the loop 
between this and the group of two stitches already 
made of the same length as the loops between the 
groups of the first row. All the long loops through- 




out the work must be of the same length. At each 
side of the next single stitch of the first row a 
single buttonhole stitch is worked, both stitches 
being kept close together. Into the loops between 
the following group of four stitches three button- 
hole stitches are worked. This is continued to 
the end of the row. The third row also consists 
of groups of two and three stitches. Into the loops 
between the stitches of the groups of three in the 
second row two buttonhole stitches are worked, 
and this is followed by three stitches below the 
following group of two. The first stitch is placed 
on the long loop close to the left of the two stitches ; 
the second stitch is placed between them, and the 
third on the long loop close to the right of the two 
stitches. Two stitches placed one in each of the 
two loops of the next group are followed by three 
stitches below the next group of two. This is con- 
tinued to the end of the row. 

The fourth row, like the first, consists of groups 
of four and single stitches. Below the group of 
three stitches, at the left of the space, four stitches 
are worked, care as usual being taken to keep the 
first and last of this group, which are worked on 
the long loops, close to the other two. This group 
of four stitches is followed by a single stitch be- 
tween the two stitches of the row above, and com- 
pletes the half diamond begun at the first row. 
The next group of four stitches follows, and so the 
work is continued to the end of the row. 

The fifth row begins the new diamonds below 
the half diamonds begun at the first row, and di- 
minishes the diamonds begun by the single stitch 
of the first row. Two stitches are placed below 
the single stitch, and are followed by a group of 
three stitches below the group of four of the pre- 
ceding row. This is continued to the end of the 
row, and is followed by the sixth row, which is 
composed of groups of three stitches below the 
groups of two stitches of the preceding row, and 
groups of two stitches below the groups of three. 
The seventh row is like the first, and completes 
the alternate whole diamonds begun by the first 
row. 
Point de Sorrento. 

Point de Sorrento is very similar in appearance 
to the double net stitch. The method of placing 
the stitches makes it exceedingly firm, and, where 
an open network is desired, this stitch is very 
practical and beautiful. The thread is fastened 
at the upper left corner of the space, and at equal 



distances two buttonhole stitches are worked close 
together. The first is a plain buttonhole stitch 
worked into the edge of the braid ; the second 
stitch is placed close to the first, and is passed 
through it. To do this, the needle is thrust both 
through the braid and betweeu the two threads 
that form the sides of the loop of the first stitch, 
and is then drawn up close in a buttonhole stitch. 
At the proper distance from this pair of stitches 
a second buttonhole stitch is worked in the edge 
of the braid. Into the loop of this stitch a second 
ibuttonhole stitch is made as before, and so the 
work is continued to the end of the row. The 
rows are all alike, each pair of buttonhole stitches 
being placed on the loop between the two pairs of 
stitches above, and each pair of stitches is inter- 
locked. 

Point de Sorrento. 

This stitch should not be worked too closely. 
The more open it is, the more showy the effect. 
In making buttonhole stitches from right to left, 
the thread must be thrown or carried around into 
position for each stitch, while, when working from 
left to right, the thread naturally falls into posi- 
tion, and the extra movement of placing it is 
obviated. Hence, it is always well when begin- 
ning a stitch, to so regulate your work that the 
rows having most buttonhole stitches may be 
worked from left to right. Because of this it is 
aest to fasten the thread for this arrangement of 
Point de Sorrento at the upper right corner of the 
space. At equal distances, and somewhat far 
ipart, groups of two buttonhole stitches, placed 
rather close together, are worked across the space. 
The thread is then carried down the edge of the 
Draid the length of a buttonhole stitch, and the 
second row of stitches begun. On the loop be- 
;ween each pair of loose buttonhole stitches of the 
irst row a group of three close buttonhol e stitches 
s worked. The third row is like the first, that is, 
;wo rather loose buttonhole stitches are worked on 
sach of the long loops between the groups of 
;hree stitches of the second row. The fourth row 
8 like the second. 

3ollion Insertion. 

When a heavy, showy insertion is desired, Fig. 
)2 is excellent. The thread is fastened at the 
lpper right corner and carried down the edge of 
he braid a distance equal to the length of a Span- 
sh net stitch. Into the upper braid, at the middle 



of the space, a single Spanish net stitch is worked, 
and the thread attached to the edge of the braid 
at the left side, a distance from the corner equal 
to the distance the thread at the right side is from 
the right corner. The thread is then carried one 
stitch down the edge of the braid, and on the 
left long loop three close buttonhole stitches are 
worked. Through the loop between the second 
and third stitch, the needle is thrust for about half 
its length, and the thread is wound around its 
point ten or twelve times. The thumb is then 
placed upon the coil of threads, the needle drawn 
through, and the thread pulled up so closely that 
the coil assumes a circular shape. 

This is followed by three more buttonhole 
stitches on the long loop. The long loop at the 
right of the Spanish net stitch is covered exactly 
as was the left loop. The three close buttonhole 
stitches are followed by the picot in bullion stitch 
and completed by three more close buttonhole 
stitches. The third row, like the first, consists of 
a single Spanish net stitch placed on the loop in 
the middle of the second row. The fourth row 
is like the second. When the space to be filled 
is rather wide, a greater number of buttonhole 
stitches will be necessary on either side of the. 
bullion stitch. 

Knotted Russian Stitch. 

Knotted Russian stitch is a very neat, easily 
made, and effective insertion. The space is first 
filled with plain or twisted Riissian stitches made 
at even distances apart, and somewhat close- 
together. When the space is curved, care must 
be taken to regularly place the stitches on the 
outer curve at an equally greater distance apart.. 
This ensures regularity in the result. When the 
space is entirely filled, the thread is passed to 
the middle of one end of the space, and a close 
buttonhole knot is tied tightly on each single 
tli read of the insertion as it passes the middle 
of the space. 

The stitch is especially useful for filling leaf or 
other long narrow space. 

Point Lace proper was not produced to any ex- 
tent before 1620, whatever may be said to the con- 
trary. Reticella work of the seventeenth century 
is the nearest approach to it, but still retains 
traces of plaiting and Genoa stitch, which were 
never employed in real point. Point proper became 
the dress lace par excellence under Louis XIV. 



37 



Combination Stitches. 

Another pretty network is made by a combina- 
tion of Brussels net and Spanish net stitches, as 
shown in Fig. 94. The thread is fastened at the 
upper right corner of the space to be filled, and a 
row of Brussels net stitches worked at regular in- 
tervals. The thread is then fastened to the edge 
of the braid at the left of the space, and overcast 
along its edge a distance equal to the length of 
the Spanish net stitches. Into the first loop of 
the Brussels net stitches of the first row a single 
Brussels net stitch is worked. Into the second 
loop three Spanish net stitches are placed. The 
third loop holds one Brussels net stitch, and into 
the fourth are worked three Spanish net stitches. 
This is continued to the end of the row. The 
third row is like the first — a row of open Brussels 
net stitches. The first stitch is placed at the right 
of the three Spanish net stitches of the row above, 
and the second is placed in the loop at their left. 
In this way the trio of Spanish net stitches is 
considered as one stitch, and the loop between the 
first and second Brussels net stitch encloses them 
all. The next Brussels net stitch is placed in the 
next loop of the row above, and the work so con- 
tinued to the end of the row. The fourth row is 
composed like the second, of single Brussels net 
and trios of Spanish net alternating. The Spanish 
net stitches are placed in the loops below or under 
the single Brussels net stitches of the second row. 
This results in the Spanish net stitches occurring 
in diagonal lines across the network, and is more 
graceful and artistic than if placed in lines under 
each other. 

One of the prettiest of networks is composed of 
alternating rows of Spanish net and Brussels net 
stitches, as shown in Fig. 95. The thread is fas- 
tened at the upper left corner, and a row of single 
Spanish net stitches is worked at regular intervals 
far enough apart to admit on the loop between 
them five or six close Brussels net stitches. When 
the opposite edge of the space is reached, the thread 
is attached to the braid, and overcast along its edge 
the required distance. A group of five or six close 
Brussels net (or buttonhole) stitches is worked over 
each loop between the Spanish net stitches. These 
Brussels net stitches must be evenly and closely 
worked and there should be enough of them to fill 
closely, but not crowd, the loop upon which they 
are worked. Each loop of the first row of stitches 
is filled in this way with the Brussels net stitches. 



The thread, upon reaching the end of the row, is 
again attached to the braid and overcast along its 
edge the length of the Spanish net stitch. The 
third row consists of the single Spanish net stitches 
placed on the little loop between the groups of 
Brussels net stitches and just under the stitches 
of the first row. The fourth row is like the second. 
When completed the network shows a pattern of 
open squares, with the heavy lines of Brussels net 
stitches reaching in parallel lines from right to 
left across the space, and the lighter Spanish net 
stitches forming parallel lines at right angles to 
the Brussels net stitches. 

A similar but less' geometrical network is made 
wholly of Brussels net stitches (see Fig. 96). 

The thread is fas- 
tened at the upper 
left corner and a row 
of open Brussels net 
stitches is worked at 
regular intervals 
across the space. 
The thread is then 
overcast along the 
edge of the braid as 
usual, and a second 
row of open Brussels 
net is worked into 
the loops of the first 
row, one stitch being 
placed in each loop. 
The third row is the 
close row. Into each 
loop of the second 
row is worked five or 
six close Brussels 
net, or buttonhole, 
stitches. There 
should always be 
the same number of 
these stitches in each 
loop, and there should be enough of them worked 
closely together to nearly fill the loop. A row of 
open Brussels net stitches is next worked, one 
stitch being placed on each loop between the groups 
of close buttonhole stitches of the third row. The 
next, or fifth row, is like the second, and the sixth 
row is like the third. 

An exceedingly delicate and attractive stitch is 
shown in Fig. 97. The thread is attached to the 
upper right corner of the space, and three rows of 




Combination Stitches. 



38 



open double net stitch are worked. To accomplish 
this, two buttonhole stitches close together, and 
drawn rather tight, are worked at regular intervals 
into the braid across the space. The second row 
consists of two close buttonhole stitches worked 
into each loop of the first row. The third row is 
like the second. At the completion of the third 
row the thread is overcast along the edge of the 
braid for a distance about equal to that necessary 
for a Spanish net stitch. A single buttonhole 
stitch is worked into the first loop of the preced- 
ing row, and left somewhat loose. Point de Venise 
or side stitches are now used. A close buttonhole 
stitch is worked over the single net stitch close to 
the loop to which it is attached. This is drawn 
closely and followed by three or four more side 
stitches set closely together. There must be 
enough of them to so fill the long loop that there 
is only a slight downward curve to that part left 
uncovered, and into which the next row must be 
worked. When the first group of side, or Point de 
Venise, stitches is completed, another single long 
Brussels net stitch is worked into the next loop, and 
this in turn is filled with the same number of side 
stitches as were used to cover the first long stitch. 
This is continued to the end of the row, and is 
followed by three rows of double net stitch, after 
which the row of long Point de Venise stitches is 
repeated. This is continued in the same order of 
three rows of double net and one of Point de 
Venise, until the space is filled. 

Combination Stitch. 

In Fig. 98 is shown a pretty combination of 
Brussels net, Spanish net, and Venetian stitches. 
The thread is fastened at the upper left corner, 
and two rows of Brussels net stitches are worked. 
The thread is then overcast one stitch lower, along 
the edge of the braid, at the side of the space, and 
then carried in a straight line across the width of 
the space and through the braid at the right side, 
just below the second row of Brussels net stitches. 
Two close buttonhole stitches are worked over each 
loop, and in every instance over the straight thread 
also. This makes the Venetian stitch. The thread 
is again carried across the space, and a second row 
of Venetian stitch worked. In this row one button- 
hole stitch is worked between each of the stitches of 
the row above. The working thread is then overcast 
along the edge of the braid the required distance, 
and a Spanish net stitch is worked between every 




Fig. 98. Comiunation Stitch. 

Brussels Net, Spanish Net, and Venetian 

Stitch. 



other stitch of the row above. The working thread 
is then carried twice across the space, and should lie 
in close parallel lines just at the edge of the loops 

of the row of 
Spanish net 
stitches. A row 
of Venetian 
stitch is then 
worked over 
these two- 
threads, and the 
the loops of the 
Spanish net 
stitches by plac- 
ing two Brussels 
net stitches on 
each loop be- 
tween the Span- 
ish net stitches. If preferred, only one straight 
thread may be carried across the space for this row 
of Venetian stitch. A second row of Spanish net 
stitches is then worked, one between every two 
Venetian stitches of the row above. This places 
the Spanish net stitches exactly under the Spanish 
net stitches already worked in the row above. Two 
rows of Venetian stitch are next made and the 
space is completed by the working of two rows of 
Brussels net. 

A very pretty effect is produced by alternating 
two or three rows of Venetian stitch with one of 
Spanish net throughout the space. In this case 
the Brussels net stitches at the beginning of the 
network are omitted, and the network should begin 
with one row of Spanish net stitches and should 
also end with a row of the same. 

Combination Stitch. 

Another pretty stitch is shown in Pig. 99. The 
thread is fastened at the upper right corner and a 
row of open Brussels net stitches is worked across 
the space. The thread is overcast along the edge 
of the left braid a distance equal to the Brussels 
net stitches. A single net stitch is worked in the 
first loop of the row above. This is repeated at 
the second loop. Into this second stitch a group 
of four close buttonhole stitches is worked. The 
thread is passed through the middle of the net- 
stitch and drawn up in a rather close buttonhole 
stitch. Three other similar stitches are worked 
close together in the same opening. A single 
Brussels net stitch is placed in the next loop of 



39 



the row above, and 
this single Brus- 
sells net stitch is 
followed by an- 
other cluster of 
four stitches with- 
in the single Brus- 
sels net stitch 
placed upon the 
next loop. This 
is repeated to the 
end of the row. 
The third row i-> 
like the first and the 

Combination Stitch. 




Fig. 90. Combination Stitch. 



fourth is like the second. 



This exceedingly beautiful stitch was taken 
from a piece of lace made in Ireland. The thread 
is fastened at the upper left corner. It is then 
held by the thumb, or secured by a pin, in a long 
loop, and at a distance to the right of the corner 
•equal to one side or half of this long loop five 
close buttonhole stitches are worked. A second 
long loop is secured, and five more buttonhole 
stitches worked. The third long loop follows. 
These loops must be of exactly the same length. 
The thread is entered into the braid at the left, 
and overcast along its edge a distance equal to 
two buttonhole stitches. Into the first long loop 
two close buttonhole stitches are worked. These 
are held in place by the thumb, and two more 
stitches are placed on the middle loops of the five 

stitches of the row 
above. Two more 
stitches are then 
placed on the next 
long loop, and are 
followed by two 
on the middle loops 
of the next group 
of five stitches. 
This is continued 
to the end of the 
row, 

The thread is again attached to the braid, and 
two close stitches are worked at the left of the 
first group of two stitches of the second row. One 
stitch is placed upon the loop between the group 
of two stitches, and close to them at the right two 
more close stitches are worked. This makes a row 
of five close buttonhole stitches under the two of 




Fig. mo. Combination Stitch. 




Fig. 101. Combination Stitch. 



the row above. The thread is not carried up to 
the next group of two stitches, but a long loop is 
secured, as in the first row, and five close button- 
hole stitches are worked below the group of two 
stitches, swinging on the long loop of the row 
above. Another long loop is secured, and five 
more close stitches worked. This is continued 
across the space. The fourth row is like the sec- 
ond, and the fifth is like the third. 

Combination Stitch. 

Fig. 101 is a very showy stitch, suitable for heavy, 
sumptuous effects. The thread is fastened at the 

upper right cor- 
ner, and a row 
of large loops is 
made by work- 
ing single Brus- 
sels net stitches 
rather far apart. 
and making the 
loops between 
somewhat long. 
The thread is at- 
tached to the left 
braid and car- 
ried down one stitch. A row of ten close button- 
hole stitches is then worked upon the first loop, 
filling it smoothly but not tightly. The left 
thumb is then placed firmly upon the second loop 
to prevent its being pulled out of shape, and to 
bring the stitches close up to the edge of the braid 
in order to preserve the scalloped effect. The first 
buttonhole stitch is then placed upon the second 
loop and drawn up very tightly to the braid. The 
other nine stitches are then worked, and the thumb 
placed upon the third loop, ready to assist in the 
shaping of the next curve. This is continued to 
the end of the row. The third row is like the 
first, except that the buttonhole stitches are placed 
between the fifth and sixth stitches of each group 
of the row above. The fourth row is like the 
second. 

Connected Needle-made Picots. 

Connected needle-made picots make a pretty 
finish for the edge of a piece of lace, and are made 
after the lace is completed. The thread is at- 
tached to the edge of the braid with a buttonhole 
stitch. Over this another buttonhole stitch, called 
a seed or side stitch, is worked. This is the little 



40 




Fig. 102. Coxxected Picots. 



Point de Yenise stitch already given. The thread 
is then carried over and through the loop, and is 

tied with a 
second b u t- 
tonhole knot 
or side stitch. 
This is re- 
peated at reg- 
ular intervals, leaving the loops between of uniform 
size, and long enough to fall in graceful curves. 

Isolated Needle-made Picots, 

Another method of finishing the edge of lace is 
to make isolated picots. These have open pendent 
loops, and resemble to some extent the machine- 
made edges. The thread is attached to the braid 
with a buttonhole stitch. A pin is then thrust 
through the pattern, upon which the lace is 
still basted, at a point indicating the required 



length of the picot. The thread is then passed 
around this pin from right to left, and crossed 
again to the right, forming an oval loop. It is 
then passed across the loop again, and the needle 
thrust behind the buttonhole stitch and the end 
of the loop over the thread that again crosses the 
picot, and drawn up in a tight buttonhole knot. 
At the required distance from the first picot, a 
second buttonhole stitch is made into the edge of 
the braid, and the thread between this and the fin- 
ished picot is drawn up to form a straight line 
parallel with the braid. The pin is again placed 

in position, and 
the second picot 
is made and 
tied with a but- 
tonhole knot, 

Fig. 103. Isolated Picots. &S before* 

These picots are repeated at regular intervals 
along the edge of the braid. 




Net or Applique Lace. 




[ANY beautiful effects may be obtained by 
combining lace braids and stitches with 
net. Marie Antoinette is a net or ap- 
plique lace on a larger scale. The same 
methods may be employed to make the finest and 
daintiest of filmy laces. In the former, cords, rings, 
and various heavy showy braids are used to pro- 
duce flowers and foliage, bow-knots and scroll 
effects. In the finer laces the regular point and 
honiton lace braids are used. 

The net is basted carefully and smoothly on 
the stamped pattern. Much of the perfection of 
the finished work depends upon the neatness and 
exactness of this part of the work. The lines 
of the pattern will be clearly seen through the 
net, and over these the braid is basted. 

Where the net underneath is to be cut away 
the edge of the braid must be fastened to the net 
with close buttonhole stitches of fine thread. The 
inner curves must be fastened into position, and, 
if the net is not to be cut away, these edges must 
also be buttonholed to the foundation. With care 
the drawing of the inner curves into position may 
be done with the buttonholing. When this can be 
done the overcasting is unnecessary. 

When the net is not to be cut away the braid 

41 



may be attached by close overcasting stitches. 
A row of braid almost always outlines the edge 
of the lace. This is also buttonholed firmly to 
the net and has an edge of purling overcast to its 
outer edge. Occasionally the braid is omitted and 
the purling alone is buttonholed to the net. This 



Wftirrmr«iWiiffi?(iBW<w«««ii!7S5 ffi 




Fio. 104. Mrthop of Applying Braid to Net. 




makes a lighter but less durable finish for the 
lace. The various lace stitches are then worked 
into the design of the braid. In honiton applique 
the braid medallions are buttonholed into position 
according to the pattern, which is usually a floral 
design. The stems of the various leaves and 
flowers are sometimes worked in tent stitch and 
sometimes are darned into the meshes of the net. 
The centres of flowers are usually finished with 
needle-made buttonholed rings. 

Instead of the lace stitches used in the point 
applique, a very pretty effect is obtained by filling 
in the spaces with darned net stitches. 

Dots may be sprinkled over the net by weaving 



the thread around and around a selected mesh of 
the net. Another way is to work bird's-eye stitches, 
using several threads. These bird's-eye stitches 
make pretty leaves and sprays when worked in 
the design of the lace. A third method of dot- 
ting the net is to work little buttonholed rings at 
regular intervals, or the tiny rings used in point 
lace may be added if the net is heavy. 

When the lace is finished it is removed from 
the pattern, and the net to be removed from under 
medallions and lace stitches is carefully cut away. 
The edge is also cut close to the buttonholing that 
holds the lace edge in position. The lace is then 
pressed under a damp cloth. 



How to Wash Lace. 




jO wasli lace successfully, plenty of time 
and great care are necessary. There 
are instances where hurried work is 
followed by success, but the chances 
are against it. A Battenberg doily became soiled 
in the making, so the maker rubbed white soap on 
it, thrust it in a basin of hot water, and rubbed it 
vigorously between her hands, until all trace of soil 
was gone. She then pulled it out into shape, placed 
it between two towels, and rolled it up. When 
nearly dry, she ironed it, still between the towels, 
and, strange to say, that doily showed no bad 
results from its rough treatment. 

A still more remarkable instance was that of a 
fine modern point lace handkerchief, made with 
thread No. 1000. This handkerchief accidentally 
went with the family linen to the washerwoman. 
The adventures it went through at her hands will 
forever remain a mystery, but when it reached 
home it was white and clean, ironed and folded, 
and none the worse for its experiences. 

But these cases are rare, and are also unfor- 
tunate, as they lead to carelessness in accomplish- 
ing a work that should receive the most careful 
treatment. Sometimes all that is necessary to 
clean a piece of lace is to lay it between two sheets 
of white or blue paper, first sprinkling it well with 
powdered magnesia. Then place it between the 
leaves of a book, and allow it to remain for several 
days. When the magnesia is shaken out, the lace 
will be found to be very greatly improved. Lace 
placed between sheets of blue paper will keep white 
longer than when placed between white paper, or 
laid away in a box. 



When actual washing is necessary, take a glass 
bottle whose body is as nearly cylindrical as possi- 
ble. Half fill this with sand or water, to prevent 
the water when boiling from tossing the bottle 
about too violently in the kettle. Very carefully 
wind the lace around this bottle, and cover it with 
a layer of cheesecloth or muslin. A still better 
way is to baste the lace smoothly and exactly on 
a piece of cheesecloth, then wind it securely around 
the bottle, and cover the whole with another layer 
of the cheesecloth. 

Into a granite saucepan put some cold water, a 
small piece of soap, and, if the lace is very dirty, 
a pinch of salt. Into this plunge the lace-wound 
bottle, and let the water come to a boil. As the 
water gets dirty, pour it off, and replace with more 
cold water and soap. Continue this treatment 
until the boiling water remains perfectly clean. 
Then remove the bottle, and plunge into a basin of 
clean, cold water, and rinse thoroughly. Allow 
the lace to remain on the bottle until it is dry, then 
remove it and separate from the cheesecloth. 

When real lace has become stained or greasy 
from wear, place it in a bath of pure olive oil, and 
allow it to remain for several hours or even a day 
or two. This gives to the lace the softness of 
texture it possessed when new. After this is 
accomplished, wind the lace on the bottle, and 
proceed with the boiling, as already described. 

When the lace is too large to wind around a 
bottle, baste it evenly and securely to a piece of 
cheesecloth, with small stitches in parallel lines 
across the surface of the lace. Baste another piece 
of cheesecloth over it, and boil in a series of waters. 



42 



After the rinsing, which must be accomplished by 
pressing and squeezing, but never by wringing, pin 
the cloth upon which the lace is basted smoothly 
to a sheet stretched in curtain frames ; or, if this 
is impossible, to a sheet stretched and pinned over a 
carpet. Allow the lace to dry, and then remove from 
the sheet and from the two layers of cheesecloth. 

If you wish the lace starched, dissolve a suffi- 
cient amount of starch in cold water. Boil half of 
it, and, when partly cool, stir in the uncooked half 
and add cold water until the mass is of the consist- 
ency of cream. Into this dip the lace, and gently 
squeeze out the extra amount. Lay the lace in a 
flat mass in the left hand, and spat it thoroughly 
with the right until the starch is well worked in. 
Repeat the process if desired, and roll the lace in 
a towel and leave for some hours. 

To color lace a cream shade add a few drops of 
black coffee to the starch. To make the lace a 
greenish hue use a little cold tea. 

Machine laces may be ironed directly upon then- 
surfaces. First carefully and smoothly pull all the 
picots into place and see that the lace is exactly in 
its original shape ; iron until dry. Then pull the 
lace along its entire length between the fingers 
from the footing or engrelure to the opposite edge. 
Pass the iron again over its length. The pulling 
relieves the lace of the stiff, starched effect, and 
makes it as pliable as new lace. 

To iron unstarched lace place it right side down 
upon a pad or ironing-board covered with several 
thicknesses of white flannel. Over this spread care- 
fully a damp cloth and press with a hot iron until 
this cloth is thoroughly dry. This is also the way 
to press newly made lace, and should be done as 
soon as the lace is removed from the pattern. A 
little white sugar added to the water in which 
this over-cloth is dampened will stiffen the lace, 
and is in some cases much better than starch. 
Another excellent method is to dampen a piece of 
new organdy or other white goods containing starch 
or dressing. Place this over the lace and iron till 
dry. This gives a crisp new appearance to the lace 
without making it at all suggestive of starch. An- 
other method of washing lace is to soak it about 
fifteen minutes in a bowl of suds made of white 
soap and water. Pour this off and replace with a 



clean suds. Place the basin where the sun will 
shine upon it. Change the lather twice a day and 
let the rays of the sun restore the lace to its orig- 
inal whiteness. When it is clean rinse it in several 
clear waters, pressing but never squeezing, and drop 
it in a dainty heap on a plate. Leave it here till 
it is only damp, not wet. Dissolve two lumps of 
white sugar in a pint of water, and into this drop 
the lace. Allow it to remain for about five minutes. 
Squeeze this sweetened water out and spread the 
lace smoothly upon the soft, flannel-covered ironing- 
table. Over it place a piece of white muslin and 
iron with a warm, not too hot, iron until it is dry. 
Remove the cloth, and, taking the lace in the hands, 
carefully manipulate with the fingers until the lace 
has been restored to its original shape. Then with 
a fine lace needle, which has no point to tear and 
split the delicate threads, carefully open and shape 
each picot. 

Irish guipure and real point lace should be 
pinned out, not ironed. This is quite a task, and 
should be attempted only when the worker has 
ample time and is not liable to be interrupted. A 
large wooden drum or hoop of sufficient width is 
best, but if this is not to be had, a large circular 
box or a straight board may be used. Pad the 
outer surface of this drum on both sides and the 
ends of the board with several layers of white 
flannel, and, if preferred, cover this with a piece 
of white muslin stretched smoothly. 

Lace must, of course, be damp when pinned, 
and then the pins will not tear the threads of the 
picots. Only a portion of the length should be 
removed from the damp cloth within which it is 
rolled. Should the lace, being pinned, become dry, 
dampen it with a wet cloth or sponge. First pin 
the footing or engrelure down to the padded sup- 
port, using plenty of pins placed close together. 
Spread the lace across its width smoothly over the 
support, and pin each picot separately by thrusting 
the pin through it and into the flannel support as 
if it were a cushion. The pins must be the exact 
size of the picots, as their size must keep the 
picots in their original shape. Leave the lace until 
it is thoroughly dry and then remove the pins. If 
the lace has a raised design, stamp it on the wrong 
side with a lace awl. 



43 



#3> 7 4 1 













:. 



>* 






















" ^ 











,? 



,- 



,0* I 









' 






















a* O* •"•♦ -s> ** 






a* V ■ 



"> 





















<J- h 









£" **° 






% 



*°o 



jy <. ° " ° - ^ 






i 







Kg". ^ 

% A 






** 
^ ^ 






cr • L ' * - 






^ * 


















v 


















; 






j.0 






- - 


















fe". 






. 



DOBBS BROS. 

LIIKAAV BINDINB 



v 






















s? 












ST. AUGUSTINE 






FLA. 






*»v 









